ELECTRIC SHOWERS PROBLEMS WITH 2 OF THEM.

[Pete36]

Ok well has a triton Jade 2, water just stopped, replaced solenoid coil and it worked again on cold water flow, switched on the power selector for max power and it stopped working again, coil had only been in for minutes........anyway assumed shower was faulty(5 plus yrs old) and replaced it with a Triton Rapid 3, brand new......fitted it and commissioned it as per instructions, all was fine on cold.......low and behold put the power selector to max (high) setting, switch shower on and immediately did same as previous shower, no flow. Had not altered anything on the electric from previous installation which had been working ok for last 5 years.
Any Ideas?

 

[seco services]

sounds like you are loosing the power neon on the shower when you switch the top dial to high setting and turning shower on ?

If so useally down to a poor connection ie in the pullcord.
A bad connection will useally open the solenoid coil on low setting but won't power the solenoid and elements when on high setting as it will be drawing alot more power.

 

[Pete36]

Thanks for reply.

Shower wont even work on low setting ......rang Triton showers and they said its got to be something to do with the electrics...........would you suggest getting a new Isolator switch (old one been on since i moved here, at least 5 yrs old prob more like 7).

Would electrical probs just develop like this, had 5 years of no problems

 

[seco services]

Check with a multi meter if your getting 230v at the shower with just the pullcord on.
Check L-N & L-E see what readings you get.
Pulcord is useally one of the first places the fault can occur ie loose connections, look for loose or burnt connections, or the pullcord could have failed altogether these showers pull alot of power when in use.

 

[Pete36]

Measured L/N only 19
L to E is 242 so guess its the pull switch?

 

[seco services]

Check the pullcord first but more likely yes, check for loose or burnt connections.

 

[ianmcd]

You have lost the neutral supply somewhere, check between L+N coming into the double pole isolator if you have 230v there and still only have the 19v on the outlet then it is the switch(quite common) if you dont have 230v going into the switch the break is somewhere else

 

[Pete36]

Checked both sides of switch 240 coming in and when switch is on there is a reading of 240 going out too

 

[Pete36]

By the time it reaches the shower its down to 19 again

 

[ianmcd]

are there any signs of scorching or arcing on any of the wiring connections ? sounds like a loose connection that has overheated, signs you are looking for are brittle insulation or bubbling on the wiring insulation

 

[Pete36]

No obvious visible signs on any connections, all very secure, cant see any breaks on insulation on cable, well not on the small amount I can see, not smelt anything like burning wire either

 

[ianmcd]

did you check the outlet voltage at the double pole switch (pull switch) with the shower running ? or was it switched off ? you will have to check the voltage with the shower on demand for full supply you definately have a break in the neutral somewhere

 

[Pete36]

Shower will not run. But will now double check with shower power switched on, pull switch was tested on and off.


Ok With pull switch on, shower start/stop to start reading at L/N is 0, Still 240 L/E also N/E is reading 240

 

[Pete36]

SECO SERVICES

Measured L/N only 19
L to E is 242 so guess its the pull switch?

Checked both sides of pull switch 240 coming in and when switch is on there is a reading of 240 going out too. By the time it reaches the shower its down to 19 again

No obvious visible signs on any connections, all very secure, cant see any breaks on insulation on cable, well not on the small amount I can see, not smelt anything like burning wire either

Ok With pull switch on, shower start/stop to start reading at L/N is 0, Still 240 L/E also N/E is reading 240