I believe the WarmUp max floor temp is 31°C but totally agree, not much use for warming the room.
Good for taking the chill off tiles when there’s a rad in the room too though
It seems 27°C to 29°C
reading this report depending on floor type. The report is rather critical there is a good reason why we stopped using the Roman hypocaust in the UK, it simply does not warm the house.
OK today with insulation methods used in buildings and using heat recovery units so very little is wasted it can work when used 24/7 but it is the 24/7 bit which is its down fall, we tend to only heat areas in use, the modern Myson radiator would seem about the most efficient method to centrally heat a building today, and the reason is it holds so little water, the whole idea is fast warm up.
We consider efficiency as the ratio between warm up time and use time, so one hour to warm up room and used for one hour the 50% efficiency, use it for 3 hours then 75% efficiency, but if it take 15 minutes to heat and used for an hour then 80% efficiency. Using this formula if a room is used 100% of the time then it does not matter how long it takes to heat the room you still have 100% efficiency, but we rarely use rooms for 100% of the time. So a blown hot air central heating radiator is best, and the under floor heating is worst, however it does not quite work out that way, as although having a fan to circulate the air means fast warm up time and whole room warm with no cold bits at the floor level it also means no cold bits next to the windows or any other area likely to transmit heat out of the house, so heat loses with circulated air are higher.
Since we need heat recovery units as we need fresh air in the house, and these also circulate the air it becomes hard to measure which are the best heating methods, and circulating air over the heated floor also means the floor can push more heat into the room without going over temperature. However although I know the heat recovery unit is the way to go to conserve energy, I have not fitted one,
OK less than £150 for a single room unit but it needs a hole boring in the wall and wiring in as well and I have instead put up with a few drafts from under the no threshold doors required since mother is in a wheel chair.
But I do have under floor heating in the wet room, and it is used twice a week Tuesday and Friday to ensure the floor dries after showers, not before the shower to get feet warm, there is that much insulation under the floor the floor never really feels cold, it's used after the shower to dry out floor so no one slips on a wet floor even with heat on it can still take 2 hours to dry if not also mopped down.
I actually have a major problem at the moment with the under floor heating, the hall connects mothers bedroom, living room, wet room and stair case with outside access to front door together, and is used as the location for the main thermostat to turn off central heating when not required. If the under floor heating is left on in the wet room and the door is left open, it is just enough to tip the balance and stop central heating firing up in the morning. The way around the problem is to use a second thermostat wired in parallel in the kitchen to give the morning boost to get rooms warm in the morning. Once the weather gets colder it will not be a problem, the heat from the under floor heating is never enough to heat even just the wet room in winter, without the towel rail that room would be bitterly cold, however I have been looking at the thermostat you want to get rid of to replace the non programmed version I am using at the moment so the floor can be auto switched on at 6 am rather than being left on over night on days when mother is due to have a shower. So would be interested to hear about what is wrong with the programmable version?
