I'm building a small extension at the back our house, utility and dinning area. No planning needed, just building regs. Am I allowed to do the electrical work these days. I am competent having built 3 houses in the past, however not up to speed on current legislation, nothing fancy, just extra sockets and lighting.
electrical work
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New circuits (and other work probably not in an extension) must be notified.
Either directly to the LA or by using a registered electrician.
Are the electrics not included in the extension plans?
Either directly to the LA or by using a registered electrician.
Are the electrics not included in the extension plans?
If you are just putting it a couple of spurs from the existing socket circuit and another from the lighting, this is not notifiable and does not require to be inspected, as I understand it.
If you are EXTENDING the existing socket and lighting circuits into the new area then that is not notifiable work.
You must remember that you will have to comply with ALL Building regulations. Firstly Part P = Electrical Safety.
Your LABC will insist that you comply with other associated building regulations that will define your choices for electrical items such as lighting and other items.
Building regulations Parts B, C, E, F, L & M will be particularly relevant so you'd better get up to speed on the current requirements there.
For instance, are you aware that 75% of the lights in the new spaces must be low energy? Do you know what the term "low energy" means within the terms of BR part L?
You must remember that you will have to comply with ALL Building regulations. Firstly Part P = Electrical Safety.
Your LABC will insist that you comply with other associated building regulations that will define your choices for electrical items such as lighting and other items.
Building regulations Parts B, C, E, F, L & M will be particularly relevant so you'd better get up to speed on the current requirements there.
For instance, are you aware that 75% of the lights in the new spaces must be low energy? Do you know what the term "low energy" means within the terms of BR part L?
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The OP has built 3 houses, I doubt he needs reminding about the fact that he needs to comply with building regulations.
The electrical work is probably one of the less complex parts of the build, and before plastering, the easiest to put right in case of any mistakes.
The electrical work is probably one of the less complex parts of the build, and before plastering, the easiest to put right in case of any mistakes.
Nevertheless, he has considered it necessary to ask.
Should we have just replied "Yes, go ahead"?
Ivixor, I saw that, but also hea said
The regulations are changing all the time and lighting is a particular stumbling block.
In the old days "builders" would bang in ten 50watt downlights in a flat roof extension, not any more.........
In the old days, they would pop a 500watt floodlight on the back of the extension. Not any more....
The regulations are changing all the time and lighting is a particular stumbling block.
In the old days "builders" would bang in ten 50watt downlights in a flat roof extension, not any more.........
In the old days, they would pop a 500watt floodlight on the back of the extension. Not any more....
Thank you for your replies, I shall be extending the current kitchen circuit by adding just a couple of extra double sockets. Lighting, just 3 ceiling lights, one in dinning area, one in utility, one in toilet.
However, the house is a 1965 bungalow with just an old 6 fuse wylex box, they won't make me change that will they ?
However, the house is a 1965 bungalow with just an old 6 fuse wylex box, they won't make me change that will they ?
To bring it up to the 17th edn regs then the quick answer is probably going to be yes, in terms of the building regs to comply with P1 it has to be safe.
One method of ensuring this is to comply with the 17th edn wiring regs (amd 1).
Concealed cables in a wall or partition (which you are adding) need to be either protected (armoured etc) or on 30mA RCDs. All your socket outlets need to be 30mA RCD'd too - your 6 way wylex more than likely doesn't provide the required level of protection.
Unfortunately replacing a consumer unit is notifiable and isn't really a DIY job.
You'll also probably need a fan in the toilet.
One method of ensuring this is to comply with the 17th edn wiring regs (amd 1).
Concealed cables in a wall or partition (which you are adding) need to be either protected (armoured etc) or on 30mA RCDs. All your socket outlets need to be 30mA RCD'd too - your 6 way wylex more than likely doesn't provide the required level of protection.
Unfortunately replacing a consumer unit is notifiable and isn't really a DIY job.
You'll also probably need a fan in the toilet.
New concealed and not mechanically protected will need to be protected by an RCD.
Lighting wiring will be in the loft I presume so not affected.
Without going in to all the various wiring options, an RCD unit could be fitted adjacent the consumer unit which would then protect all the sockets which would be good.
This would be notifiable work.
Lighting wiring will be in the loft I presume so not affected.
Without going in to all the various wiring options, an RCD unit could be fitted adjacent the consumer unit which would then protect all the sockets which would be good.
This would be notifiable work.
If the lighting wiring is of 1965 then it will most likely not have an earth.
If so you will need to run new cabling at least to serve the new lights that does include an earth.
The lighting circuits will need to be RCD protected too as the switch drops will be concealed cables <50mm from the surface.
So the minumum you would be looking at is 2 RCDs, new lighting wiring and (of course) upgrades to main earth and supplementary bonding conductors.
If you have said that you will DIY the electrics on the Building Regs submission then LABC will inspect your work and want it to be done to Bs7671 (2008) 17th edition and not the standrd that the house was wired to: BS7671 (1955) which was the 13th edition.
Changing the old fuseboard may be the easiest route to do this. As stated above, this is a heart lung transplant for your house and not a DIY job unless you have the knowledge and calibrated test equipment to achieve it.
Could use steel conduit for the drops.
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To extend a non RCD protected circuit to include new sockets where the cables are buried less than 50 mm in the wall without upgrading the whole circuit you have two main ways.
1) Use a RCD FCU at original socket and use a spur from that to power new sockets which means total for all new sockets will be 13A. With this method you can use twin and earth.
2) Use Ali-tube cable and extend the ring then use RCD sockets for all new sockets.
With the lights because you will likely come down the wall to a switch ali-tube cable is really the only option. You could fit a RCD FCU but you have to consider how dependent you are on the light should the RCD trip.
RCD FCU come as two types active and passive for lights you would need passive so with a power cut on return of power the lights will work again without resetting with the 6A MCB/Fuse used for lights this should not be a problem. With power it's down to the loop impedance if the impedance is too high should there be a fault then the voltage can drop to below the required volts for the RCD to work. To get around this problem we use an active RCD these will auto disconnect should there be a power failure.
Having said all that it comes down to both price and do you really want non RCD protected sockets in the rest of the house.
RCD sockets are not cheap and neither is ali-tube cable so it could work out cheaper to replace the consumer unit than use RCD sockets and ali-tube cable.
Except for bathroom lights do not need to be RCD protected but cable down the wall to switches will either need to be ali-tube or RCD protected.
1) Use a RCD FCU at original socket and use a spur from that to power new sockets which means total for all new sockets will be 13A. With this method you can use twin and earth.
2) Use Ali-tube cable and extend the ring then use RCD sockets for all new sockets.
With the lights because you will likely come down the wall to a switch ali-tube cable is really the only option. You could fit a RCD FCU but you have to consider how dependent you are on the light should the RCD trip.
RCD FCU come as two types active and passive for lights you would need passive so with a power cut on return of power the lights will work again without resetting with the 6A MCB/Fuse used for lights this should not be a problem. With power it's down to the loop impedance if the impedance is too high should there be a fault then the voltage can drop to below the required volts for the RCD to work. To get around this problem we use an active RCD these will auto disconnect should there be a power failure.
Having said all that it comes down to both price and do you really want non RCD protected sockets in the rest of the house.
RCD sockets are not cheap and neither is ali-tube cable so it could work out cheaper to replace the consumer unit than use RCD sockets and ali-tube cable.
Except for bathroom lights do not need to be RCD protected but cable down the wall to switches will either need to be ali-tube or RCD protected.
Sorry guys, and thank you for your replies, but my problem is not knowing how to install the correct electrical installation, its the fact that i'm not qualified or have any test equipment.
I know or can find out how to install to the current regs, but i'm just a 60 year old heating engineer, not a qualified electrician. will the building inspector accept the work done by me.
I know or can find out how to install to the current regs, but i'm just a 60 year old heating engineer, not a qualified electrician. will the building inspector accept the work done by me.
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