ELectricity cable route

[Bushmaniac]

Hello
I am about to lay cable for an electric cooker. I have the correct cable, control units and terminal outlets and will be getting an electrician to connect to the consumer unit. The easiest route for me would be to start in the elecricity cupboard, and round a wall shelf above wood panelling, obviously encasing the cable in trunking. Is this legal? The cable boxing would be barely visible above the shelves, but visible enough to avoid acccidental damage? It would just save me having to wreck a fairly new floor above, or below...many thanks

 

[Pensdown]

If you're installing the cable on the surface enclosed in trunking you can follow whatever route you like. The safe zones only apply to hidden cables.

What size cable are you using?

 

[Bushmaniac]

Many thanks
The cable I am using is I think 10mm.....I bought the higher mm as it is going to a connection unit with a socket. After reading further on here I also see that I need an outlet plate (45 amp)...as the oven is well above 7 kw...Does that sound right??
Sincere thanks!
Kyla

 

[JACKC]

You can apply diversity to a cooker circuit which would enable you to use 6mm cable if the calcs are ok. Post the exacy wattage of the cooker and hob and we will get back to you.

 

[Pensdown]

As you have bought the cable then 10mm it is! You may have been able to use 6mm which is a bit easier to terminate but without knowing the cookers rating it's impossible to say.

What type of control unit did you buy as you may still be able to use it?

 

[Bushmaniac]

Hi there....
Am I using the right terminology---Doh...
The control unit is a double pole one, with a socket, as we have a bit of a socket shortage. I'm going to bandq later to pick up the cooker outlet Box...The specs are as follows....

5760W Total for the Hob
1800W for the oven....
It also says fuse capacity 32A, but as a socket will also be present I believe that this should be 45??
Thanks again

 

[nozspark]

Do you have your electrician already lined up to do this work? as many will not be able to sign off others work so they will have to pass it off as their own and therefore take on responsibility for it. Something else that the electrician will need to check is you earthing type and whether you equipotential bonding (to gas, water, oil, structural steel etc..) is up to standard. As the CCU you are using incorporates a socket then it will need to have RCD protection even though you are planning on runnning the cables in trunking.
Those who will do this for you will probably want to pre-approve the cable size, route and the accesories that you want to use; and will advise you accordingly.

 

[Bushmaniac]

Oh eck---I think I may have bitten off more than I can chew!
Ok, the only cable I have routed so far is the cable that will be connected to the consumer unit and to the control socket. I haven't wired this up at all. But It follows a straight line up and then goes through to the shelf whereupon it is encased in trunking.

The gas boiler was put in approximately 9 years ago and as part of that we had to have a new consumer unit and all of the electrics checked, some of which were redone. I'm hoping that this means theyd be up to scratch.

If it's not possible for me to do the other bits ( It's sounding unlikely), could anyone give me a rough estimate of the cost, simply because, as a female, I was absolutely screwed by a plasterer once who charged me 200 quid to put a piece of board over a fireplace ( I know very few tradesmen are like that, but it does happen

thanks very much for all your help and for stopping me from probably making a huge mistake.

 

[nozspark]

All I was trying to say was that it would be a good idea to get your friendly electrician on board before you put the cable in!! They will advise you of the route, installation method and anything else that needs to be taken account of!!
Also the regulations have changed a bit since 9 years ago so whilst your old consumer unit may not be up to current standards (and regulations are not applied retrospectively) it may be suitable for this new circuit without too much bother.

 

[Bushmaniac]

Thanks again---
I think sometimes trying to save money is perhaps a no no in the long run...
On reading the DIY pages more, I see that I should have the sink I've plumbed in (Ive moved the kitchen into another room) bonded too, so really am thinking now that perhaps I've overestimated my own capabilities and it would be best to be safer rather sorry, especially seeing as Im the type of person who nearly gets electrocuted by the trolley on every trip to Asda!!!

 

[nozspark]

Thanks again---
I think sometimes trying to save money is perhaps a no no in the long run...

You are right (in some circumstances), but doing the 'donkey work' correctly can save you money

On reading the DIY pages more, I see that I should have the sink I've plumbed in (Ive moved the kitchen into another room) bonded too,

Only pipework in bathrooms needs to be bonded, kitchen sinks do not need any!!

Im the type of person who nearly gets electrocuted by the trolley on every trip to Asda!!!

That is static electricity and has more to do with the material that your clothes and car seats are made of than anything else - I find that holding onto the car door whilst getting out of the car is a good way to dischrge this and not feel it

 

[Bushmaniac]

Wow---thanks.....
Please could you tell me, out of interest---Why does a kitchen sink not require bonding, but a bathroom one does? I'm chufefed to hear that it doesn't )

So what I need to do is ask an electrician to come and check what I intend to do, and then check again after I've done it and hopefully he will just need to connect to consumer unit???

Please excuse me if I appear a bit dense on the subject--And I will definately be holding on to the car door from now on)

 

[securespark]

Enclosing your cable in trunking will limit its CCC. Plus, you should have a spacing factor of 45%. This means with 10mm² T&E you'll end up with quite a large trunking...

 

[Bushmaniac]

SO, 'Spacing factor' Does that mean there should be some space for movement within the trunking? The fit I have is very snug--So I should be replacing with larger trunking?

 

[Click-Sure]

Bathroom - Basin
Kitchen - Sink

We're working to a spec at the minute which specifically requires us to bond the sinks