Electrocuted... :)

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19 Nov 2003
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...While working on the lighting in my bathroom... I switched off the power to the upstairs lighting circuit, checked that none of the lights were working, tested the live wire, then got stuck in unravelling what seems to be the central junction area for all the upstairs lighting, which was constructed mainly out of connection blocks and PVC tape. Anyway, as I came to untwist the neutrals, I got a shock and a few sparks as they seperated. Once they were separated the landing light wouldn't work any more (which was seemingly on the downstairs circuit) I'm guessing that the neutral from the landing light may be wired into the upstairs circuit? Is this ok or has my house really been wired by monkeys as I suspect?

Also can anyone point me towards an idiots guide to using a multimeter? -like what I should have tested here to find the problem beforehand?
 
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its just the way the landing / hallway lights have been wired (2way)........I dont think there is a spark who has not recieved an electric shock from neutral conductors........domestic wiring...should of only been a tingle :!:
 
Yeah, wasn't as bad as the one I got from touching the flash capacitor in a camera i was "fixing" :)
 
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You probably got the shock as a result of the 2-way light as mentioned by il78 but also if you've a flourescent light on on the downstairs lights for eg they have a capacitor in them which could have put a voltage on the neutral block in the consumer unit and back out to you. il78 is right. As an electrician I've had plenty of belts touching neutrals. Instead of using a multi-meter, more convenient is a mains tester, not a screwdriver but a proper tester, only about 10 quid and could save another belt. If you have to use a multi-meter as it's domestic use you're obviously A-C, select the next voltage range above 240V and when you've identified the earth test each wire against that. If it's live the test lamp will light. Your MM will test for lower voltages not enough to light the test lamp. I would also replace the connector blocks with proper joint boxes.
 

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