Yes. 50p is big deal for people. You wouldn't even give me an answer that's worth 0p.
Enamel for alloy wheel?
- Thread starter DiyNutJob
- Start date
You wouldn’t even accept an answer if it were from the worlds top expert and you were being paid to accept it. Your 'conversation' would end. Admit it, you’re lonely and the only way you can get to talk to people is to argue with them. How sad. Still, page 4 now. Keep going, you might drag a few more into your lonely sad world. 
Having sorted valve stem extraction, now let's look at valve stem insertion. Throughout the process, tyre fitting paste is continuingly applied and reapplied to all surfaces that are subject to friction. The paste is superior to washing up liquid for this application. Oil is finer and might work even better. But, oil should not be used for rubber.
The job is aided by this tool. But, the tool is incompatible with my wheel: the thick and robust guide/compression tube is too fat for the recessed space available.
An adaptor is 3D printed using petg. A 2mm thick wall with random seam positions is strong enough to resist the expansion of the compressed valve stem rubber. To smooth the adaptor interior from print artefacts, a large drill bit is used. The sharp spiral edge of the drill bit acts like a circular knife. Cut using a sawing motion.
The first step is to compress the valve stem to produce a rubber protrusion. The protrusion acts as an alignment guide for the target hole.
The valve stem is transferred to the adaptor by giving it an almighty push until it can go no further.
Transfer complete.
The detachable base of the adaptor is removed to reveal a protrusion. The base helps to obtain a 4mm protrusion that is still tapered.
Now ready to install.
Installation completed with mallet. No need to go crazy with it, just hammer, check, hammer, check to ensure there is advancing movement. Excessive force could result in the puller steel crashing onto the edge of the valve stem hole damaging it.
The job is aided by this tool. But, the tool is incompatible with my wheel: the thick and robust guide/compression tube is too fat for the recessed space available.
An adaptor is 3D printed using petg. A 2mm thick wall with random seam positions is strong enough to resist the expansion of the compressed valve stem rubber. To smooth the adaptor interior from print artefacts, a large drill bit is used. The sharp spiral edge of the drill bit acts like a circular knife. Cut using a sawing motion.
The first step is to compress the valve stem to produce a rubber protrusion. The protrusion acts as an alignment guide for the target hole.
The valve stem is transferred to the adaptor by giving it an almighty push until it can go no further.
Transfer complete.
The detachable base of the adaptor is removed to reveal a protrusion. The base helps to obtain a 4mm protrusion that is still tapered.
Now ready to install.
Installation completed with mallet. No need to go crazy with it, just hammer, check, hammer, check to ensure there is advancing movement. Excessive force could result in the puller steel crashing onto the edge of the valve stem hole damaging it.
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That’s the wrong valve for an alloy wheel. Tgat valve is for a steel wheel.Difficult to explain it to you. You are stuck in the 50's or something.
