Engineered flooring (compared with laminate and solid)

[DaveS]

I need to floor a new dining room (over concrete/screed). We used laminate in the old one about 10 years ago, it looks OK but for some reason the room looks "cold" and walking around in the room sounds a bit like - mmm - walking on laminate! Some of the new laminates have a texture so they look a "little" better than the old stuff, but do they still sound the same, even with the new types of underlay?

I'm tempted by "engineered" flooring because it looks less plastic'y - but does it sound better than laminate? Is the sound a feature of a floating floor? Can underlay make a big difference?
I assume "engineered" boards are more stable than solid hardwood but are there any other considerations?

Also, where's the best place to buy?

Dave

 

[WoodYouLike]

DaveS, no matter how the melamine laminate manufacturers try to copy nature (with texture, oil-look etc) it is and stays plastic, will sound like plastic and feel as cold as plastic (even with thicker underlayment).

We have written a blog post about the differences between solids and wood-engineered.

As for where to buy: try a friendly professional independent retailer, get proper advice and proper quality no matter what your budget.

 

[DaveS]

Thanks for the reply, that's a useful write-up. I'm now convinced that I need to opt for "engineered" rather than laminate - it's unfortunate that Ashford isn't nearer to Hampshire

You suggest that 3-strip is better in smaller rooms; my dining room is 5.4m x 2.9m with the window across the shorter wall. Is it correct that the planks should run lengthways (because of the light and the narrowness of the room)?

DaveS

 

[WoodYouLike]

You suggest that 3-strip is better in smaller rooms; my dining room is 5.4m x 2.9m with the window across the shorter wall. Is it correct that the planks should run lengthways (because of the light and the narrowness of the room)?

DaveS

Spot on DaveS. and I'm sure there are very nice and friendly professional retailers near you

 

[mattysupra]

If you have floor glued to the subfloor it is more of a solid sound you will get to a hollow sound.

 

[DaveS]

But I thought I needed a DPM and underlay when using an engineered floor on screed (even though it's 12 months since the screed was laid and I know there's a good DPM) - how would I glue the floor down??

DaveS

 

[mattysupra]

You only need a dpm barrier if you have no dpm or damage to existing dpm on concrete floor. When people advice dpm underlay it is not a dpm underlay but a vapour barrier they mean. If subfloor is above british standard of 75% rh then a vapour barrier underlay is not guaranteed. You need a dpm barrier. There is no dpm barrier underlay on market. Just a sheet of plastic and then underlay on top. Or done properly a epoxy membrane. A vapour barrier is to stop condensation / dew point etc causing problems with a floating floor. With a glue down method if subfloor is below 75% rh which i guess yours is unless you have a problem you can loose the underlay and floor is fully bonded to subfloor. Normally 2-4" wide planks. You cant glue all floors so need to choose a floor that is meant to be bonded!

 

[mattysupra]

ps... if anything there sounds like im speaking in another language let me know which bits and i will translate.

 

[DaveS]

Thanks, all understood.

DaveS