Extending a flex on a tumble dryer

[RSB]

Hi folks,

Hopefully you can help. I have a tumble dryer in my garage but unfortunately the sockets are in the wrong place. I thought the best solution would be to extend the flex as I'm not too happy about using the dryer with an extension lead and leaving it unattended.

My dryer is rated as:

Total Power W 2225
Heater Wattage W Max 2000
Water Tank Capacity 3.5 Litres
Approved to BSEN60335
Voltage/Frequency 230 V AC / 50 Hz
Motor Wattage W 225

I've done some research and got a sealed connecter block and 1.5mm three core flex. Looking at stuff on the net its saying for the rating I should use 1.00mm flex but I read elsewhere that some appliances need thicker flex then their rating; additionally the labeling on the flex indicates it can be used for a washing machine or extension cord (hence my choice of the 1.5mm).

Is this correct and okay to use the 1.5mm or do I need to rethink.

Cheers

 

[pbar]

Surely you would be better off using an extension. Do not get one of the reel type, unless you unreel all of the cable as they can overheat with heavy loads/heavy use. Make sure you get a fused one, and one of those that has a really thick cable, which will most likely be thicker than the one on your appliance.
In my opinion, that would be safer than joining the existing cable as you describe.

 

[electronicsuk]

If the connector block is rated to 13A then all is well, 1.5 flex is up to the job as long as you're not extending it by silly distances. Even better would be to replace the flex right up to the appliance, but I guess you don't have any desire to take the tumble dryer to bits?

 

[Lectrician]

By far the best solution is to move the socket or add an additional one.

I am not a fan of increasing the cable lengths of appliances.

That said, your choice of cable is fine, and the joiner you describe sounds like one of the 'powerbreaker' type IP rated joins. These would be fine.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

In my opinion, that would be safer than joining the existing cable as you describe.

It would be better, as Matthew says, to make the cable longer (which probably doesn't mean taking the drier to bits), but as long as the OP plans to use a proper flex connector like this:

There's nothing unsafe about it.

 

[RSB]

Many thanks for your ideas

Surely you would be better off using an extension

Pbar - I did think about that and it is the cheapest option but I don't like pluging in heavy appliances and leaving them switched on and unattended, just a personal idiosyncracy in my mind something else to go wrong. Yes the connector I'm using is the type shown in your photo

If the connector block is rated to 13A then all is well, 1.5 flex is up to the job as long as you're not extending it by silly distances. Even better would be to replace the flex right up to the appliance

Matthew - The connector is an in-line 13 amp connector and i'm extending it by about 1m. I did look at replacing the whole flex but I was concerned it might invalidate the warranty. This way if the dryer goes wrong I can undo the connection and put a 13amp plug on before the engineer gets here.

By far the best solution is to move the socket or add an additional one

Lectrician - This is my preferred alternative and one for the future, but I need the sockets where they currently are so it would mean adding a new one, it's difficult to describe my garage but the garage is on a separate ring joined to my fuse board (RCD type) but i have a FCU in my hall which isolates the garage, I have a further fuseboard (again RCD type) in the garage and on it run 3 rings - sockets, lights, garden lights. Where the dryer is couldn't be further from any sockets making a spur a problem so it would mean a new ring into fuseboard. My understanding is that as this is an addition to a ring and in a garage Part P applies which increases the cost. I recently had the garden lights added and the cost of getting them certified was heavy.


Sorry all about the length of the reply but hope it explains my thinking.

On an aside any views on the way the power is supplied to my garage and the triple protection?

Cheers
Ravi[/quote]

 

[RSB]

I came accross this topic linked to my query

//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=44617

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Pbar - I did think about that and it is the cheapest option but I don't like pluging in heavy appliances and leaving them switched on and unattended,

I can't work out why you could unplug or switch off at the socket a cable direct from the tumble drier but not an extension lead....

I did look at replacing the whole flex but I was concerned it might invalidate the warranty. This way if the dryer goes wrong I can undo the connection and put a 13amp plug on before the engineer gets here.

It'll have a moulded plug - are you not worried about cutting that off?

Lectrician - This is my preferred alternative and one for the future, but I need the sockets where they currently are so it would mean adding a new one, it's difficult to describe my garage but the garage is on a separate ring joined to my fuse board (RCD type) but i have a FCU in my hall which isolates the garage, I have a further fuseboard (again RCD type) in the garage and on it run 3 rings - sockets, lights, garden lights.

So you've got 2 RCDs in series, and a CU downstream of a 13A fuse.

Pointless.

Where the dryer is couldn't be further from any sockets making a spur a problem

Why?

so it would mean a new ring into fuseboard. My understanding is that as this is an addition to a ring and in a garage Part P applies

Part P applies, of course, as it does to anything you do, but a garage isn't a special location, so extending a circuit isn't notifiable. If you create a new one it would be, but that would also be pointless.

On an aside any views on the way the power is supplied to my garage and the triple protection?

Pointless - you could do away with the garage CU and just have a couple of FCUs for the lighting.

 

[pbar]

Many thanks for your ideas

Surely you would be better off using an extension

Pbar - I did think about that and it is the cheapest option but I don't like pluging in heavy appliances and leaving them switched on and unattended, just a personal idiosyncracy in my mind something else to go wrong. Yes the connector I'm using is the type shown in your photo

No worries. There's lots of input been given on this, I'm sure you'll have a satisfactory conclusion.
Just one thing though, how will 'not leaving the appliance switched on and unattended' differ between having an extension and have a wired connection. Surely either way, you'd just switch the plug socket off?

 

[RSB]

Cheers all.

Regarding the layout of the garage the FCU was already in place when I moved in, when I had other electrical work done I had a spare fuse board and it was suggested I might as well utilise it especially if I was going to add a ring on for mains voltage garden lights.

Yes I know it sounds irrational about the extension lead just my own idosyncrancy.

With regards to cutting off the plug no I'm not worried about that as it's perfectly acceptable practice, say for example when feeding cable through work top etc.

Thanks all.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

it was suggested I might as well utilise it especially if I was going to add a ring on for mains voltage garden lights.

Suggested by who?

There is no "especially" - the feed to the CU is limited by that 13A FCU...

 

[pbar]

I can't work out why you could unplug or switch off at the socket a cable direct from the tumble drier but not an extension lead....

.

I asked that also. Although you phrased it better than I did.
Wonder what the answer is...