Extra zone valve wiring in - y plan system

[stu550]

Why do I need a connector for the browns? Thought I understood till you said that...!
If I use a timer and a 92e thermostat, I won't have frost protection to the new zone? Unless the wiring gets clever - which I can't work out how it can.

 

[doitall]

Because there is nothing in the wiring center you can connect the brown too.

In my ;last post I suggested you look at the Honeywell Sundial RF pack 1.

You could have a separate frost stat with that set up.

 

[stu550]

.

Because there is nothing in the wiring center you can connect the brown too.

There is nothing in the current HTG valve connector so why can I not wire the brown from the valve into this?

 

[doitall]

The grey is constantly live and the brown becomes live when the CH is on or frost thermostat kicks in.

Both valves would work of the same stat.

 

[stu550]

Oh, you mean both valves will open with the current stat and therefore wouldnt be zoned....?

In which case, what type of 'connector' are you suggesting?

So you could use the grey as the live to L and the blue to N.

For the browns you'll need a connector.

 

[doitall]

Any small electrical connector, they come in a strip of 10 normally just cut one off.

 

[gaswizzard]

Get someone who knows what they are fookin doing period.

Go play some snooker DIA , you can lead a horse to water..............

 

[doitall]

Stu's getting there, would be a lot quicker if he read my post though.

Snooker Sat, Mon, Tues, and some Thurs and Sundays.

There will some team changes Monday 4-1 & 3-2 is not good enough if we want to retain the title.

 

[stu550]

Doitall - Have read all your posts- just wasn't understanding them all.

Didn't realise either you just meant terminal blocks! There is space in the wring centre to wire the brown into... hadn't realised you were also suggesting linking the stat to the valve within the wiring centre - make sense now...

Also, apologies for missing your edited post where you suggested Honeywell Sundial RF pack 1.

Many thanks for your patience on this, I now follow. Much appreciated.

 

[doitall]

Before you rush of, post back exactly how you think I said do it.

Better to spend a week on here that damage the pcb etc, and time isn't a problem during the day

You can't use the space on the board for the Brown.

 

[doitall]

A drawing for you Stu. if you go for the clock option post the details

Notice I added a connector box as it will be easier for you and make the unused wires safe at the same time. A surface mounted box with a connector strip and blank plate will do.

Untitled

• doitall
• 15 Sep 2012
• 1

 

[stu550]

Why can't the space on the board be used for the brown if it goes via a stat and terminal block?

 

[doitall]

Why can't the space on the board be used for the brown if it goes via a stat and terminal block?

We went through that yesterday.

 

[stu550]

Thanks for the drawing! It's what I was thinking of. Just hadn't drawn it out.

I am leaning towards the idea of a timer for three reasons: unsure if wireless stat will get through the two stone walls and distances I need, having to replace batteries in the stat and thirdly the cost.

If I go timer option, I will add in a new frost stat, that will open the new valve only should it drop below a certain temp? Obviously won't fire the boiler etc but the main frost stat should do that!

I can't work out how it is possible to use the existing frost stat to open the current timer WITHOUT the back feed also opening it when the CH is set to ON.

This okay?

 

[stu550]

...

We went through that yesterday.

I understand the diagram so don't worry!