Then I had better try and sort it out.I tried D_Hailsham's instructions but ran into problems:
Five wires to terminal 6? Where did I say this?CH ON and HW ON, HW stat common and both thermostat lives went to terminal 6, I had trouble getting things to work like this.
CorrectI have gone back to plan posted earlier where HW ON goes to 6 and CH ON terminal 4.
Both upstairs and downstairs thermostats are connected as follows.
Downstairs switched live goes to terminal 5 (same terminal as the downstairs brown zone valve)
CorrectUpstairs switched live goes to terminal 7 (same terminal as the downstairs brown zone valve as per D_H instructions).
I think you mean terminal 4 (same as CH ON)Both thermostat lives go to terminal 4 (same as HW ON)
CorrectNeutrals go to terminal 2 (with all the other neutrals).
So far everything is correct.Thermostat is the Honeywell T6360B - Terminal 3 switched live.
Does this sound correct? It's not calling the heating on!?
Your assumption is correct, but the thermostat live (1) terminals should be connected to the CH ON terminal which is connected to terminal 4.I'm assuming the witched live on the thermostat activates the brown wire on the motorised valve. How does the thermostat get power if the live is connected to the HW ON which has no voltage on the ON position?
Yes. The two heating zones are sharing the same channel on the programmer; it's just the temperatures which are being separately controlled.Norcon said:From what I've read you have a 3 zone heating system with a 2 channel programmer. Is that correct?
Then I had better try and sort it out.
The "Auto" setting just means that it will turn on and off according to the times you have programmed e.g: 0700 - ON; 0900 - OFF; 1700 - ON; 2300 - OFF.I left the upstairs thermostat on and the hot water on and left the programmer on auto.
I went to the pub and came back to the house being red hot upstairs and piping hot water!.
Sounds like it.I'm just wondering if all the messing around and testing of thermostats it meant it needed to be left alone for a while to get temperature values!?
The temperature set on the thermostat is the temperature you want in the room. If the room is colder than the set temperature, the boiler will come on to heat the room up to the set temperature; if the room is hotter, there is no need to turn the boiler on. If you turn the stat up from min it will click at about the room temperature and if you turn it down it will click at a lower temperature. The difference between these temperatures is the "differential". On old mechanical thermostats the differential could be as much as 3 or 4 degrees. This was noticeable so people were continually turning the thermostat up and down as they got too hot and then too cold. Modern digital thermostats have a differential of 1 degree or less, which isn't noticeable.If I turn the thermostat to higher than 15 c then the boiler cuts in and you can hear it click. If I leave it a 10 c or no click should the heating system kick in?
"Continuous" means that you want the heating on 24 hours a day. The valves are controlled by the thermostats. So if the temperature is below that set the valve will open and the boiler light; and vice versa.If I use the continuous function on the programmer this opens both valves upstairs and downstairs for CH and there is nothing I can do about this short of getting a 3 channel programmer
The "Once" function just ignores the intermediate ON and OFF times you have set. It turns on at the first ON and OFF at the last OFF(0700 and 2300, in example above).Similar to above for the once function on the programmer of having timed periods on and off for CH Is it both downstairs and upstairs on?
Correct.So if the heating is set to continuous and both thermostats are OFF then in theory the boiler will not fire until the thermostat is raised to above the current temperature- I think that's what you saying.
That will depend on whether you are in an ON part of the auto cycle. Say you have set the Auto times to 0700 ON, 0900 OFF, 1700 ON, 2300 OFF. The boiler can only light between 0700 and 0900 and between 1700 and 2300. So, if you turn the stat up between 0900 and 1700, or between 2300 and 0700, nothing will happen as the timer is set to OFF during those times.If the auto function is on and I turn the thermostat up will this trigger the boiler or will I need it set to continuous for this?
What about the walls? Have they been cavity filled - if it's not a sold walled house?the loft is insulated and boarded.
What about the walls? Have they been cavity filled - if it's not a sold walled house?
Are you sure there is a cavity in the wall? Most houses built then were max 13" solid walls; I know my previous 1905 house had them.No. No I haven't but I have thought about it. Maybe it isn't the can o' worms it once was. I am always worried about the risk of something going wrong (damp). It might make sense as I do have brick cavity walls and the house was built around 1900 so only insulation is a bit of horse hair in the plaster!
Had it put into the current house about four years ago. The inside temperature only drops about 4-5 degrees overnight, even when it is -10 outside. You can get free/cheap insulation - check out Energy Savings Trust Grant Search.I take it that D_H is a fan?
Cavity and loft insulation will be more cost effective.I was going to save up to get more double glazing next.
I think you may have misunderstood what I wrote.I will seriously consider the cavity insulation if your heat retention is that good on an old house. Is it terraced, detached though?
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