false ceiling frame NEW QUESTION ADDED

[Steve]

I'm putting up a false ceiling in my kitchen, to fit downlights, and hide an extractor fan duct. The existing is 2700mm. New ceiling will be 2400-2500mm - really enough to hide the 100mm flat duct, and make the kitchen feel a bit cosier - a high ceiling makes the room feel very "echoey"

I have a plasterer lined up to board and skim the ceiling. But I dont want to p*** him off by having an unsuitable frame. So what sort of frame should I be looking at? And what centres? The plasterer himself said 2x2's would be sufficient over the 2680mm span, supported in the middle by an upright to the main ceiling. Does that sound ok?

Cheers.

 

[huddsspread]

sounds ok to me, just make sure the centres and noggins are logical. i.e all at 400mm centres, noggins at the same as you boards will be 1200 or 2400. What you dont want is a ceiling that moves when a plasterer pushes his trowel on the ceiling....been there done that, had to change it for them.

Remember when you put your downlighters in, and you leave connetor block on it...draw where they are going to go once its been plasterboarded, then draw a picture and measure it all twice. Then once its skimmed you know eactly where to drill with your hole cutter.

 

[peaps]

Alternative, if he uses 6x3 boards you need to set the timber frame at 450mm. I would go for 3x2 just incase, like hudds says, you don't want movement in the frame.

I only use 6x3 if I board private houses, just easy to get in, out and up without a lifter.

 

[Steve]

Cheers lads. I'll set the timbers at 400mm, and if he needs intermediates he can fit them.

 

[Steve]

Right, assuming a run a ring right around the kitchen to fix the frame to, how do I fix the cross pieces to that ring? I thought about toe-screwing them, but it doesn't seem like the best solution. What about some kind of metal bracket? The timber is 3x2, I have 14 cross beams to put in.

 

[huddsspread]

Fix some battens to the original ceiling,and just drop a few pieces of timber downwards off them,don't screw them in though.get the ceiling level,screw them in to the bits hanging down,then cut them off flush with the plasterboard side of the new ceiling.

 

[1john]

You can use mini joist hangers if you like. Its an idea to plane 2mm off the ends of the joists so the hangers dont protrude lower than your frame.
You could also fix a batten along the bottom edge of the wall mounted timbers and notch the joists so they slot over that and screw through.

 

[huddsspread]

Sorry I never read what you wrote correctly, my solution was for the niddle of the ceiling so it don't sag down.you can use joist hangers or depending on the size and weight of the ceiling just screw straight into the outer ring you have built