false ceiling

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I need to put a false ceiling in a small size kitchen. Can anyone please help me...I would like to know what materials to buy to make the frame to support the plaster boards or ceiling tiles.
I would like downlights but am not to fussed about just keeping the existing light if it is too much trouble.

Dad (electrician) coming specially from abroad on Wed the 11th to help so I would really appreciate a reply...

Thank you
 
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Relatively straightforward, but is there any particular reason you want to drop the height of the ceiling? If you drop it below the standard 2.4M, you may fall foul of building regs (but they seem to be different in Scotland so I may be wrong)

Are they cavity walls?
Dimensions of kitchen?
 
Thank you for your reply.
The reason I would like false ceiling is because I took down a partition wall ans as a result the ceiling is badly damaged. Apart from that it is full of lumps and bumps and it seems easier just to cover the whole lot. I would lower it as little as possible...

The dimensions are 2.50m, 3.30m
Sorry but don't know that a cavity wall is...The walls are all brick and in sound condition.
 
OK, no problem, you can do it two ways, screw up plasterboard to the existing joists or strap up timber suppports to the existing joists and put your plasterboard onto that (this will give you a small cavity above the new ceiling)- you don't need to take your ceiling down!

Use 12.5mm plasterboard, comes in 2.4 x 1.2M so you'll get away with 3 of them, unfortunately you'll have a 100mm strip down one side.

Find where all your joists are, and mark off the end on the wall so you can see where they are when the plasterboard goes up. if you're going straight onto the existing ceiling you'll need to use 40mm plasterboard screws to allow for the extra thickness of plaster before you hit a joist.

If your ceiling is very irregular, you may want to strap up timber battens, again mark off your joists and fit lengths of CLS (about 80 x 40mm) at 400mm spacings - I just zip them up with 80mm screws. To take the irregularity out of your ceiling, use a straight edge to check low points, loosen the screw and pack out as required.

Once everything is up, tape all the joints with self adhesive skrim and skim over with joint filler - I would highly recommend Gyproc Easifil. You'll find the boards have a feathered edge, this allows a couple of mil for the tape and skim, feather it out a bout 10 m either side. leave for about 40 mins and as the plaster just starts to harden, splash with water and use your trowel to scrape out all the rough edges, the gravy will also fill minor holes. Leave to dry overnight and sand/refill till you get a nice flat finish.

The wall/ceiling joints can be a b*****r but you can get round that by using coving - there are some excellent high density polystyrene coves about - just sticks up with no more nails, very quick and then caulk all the joints.

Don't even think of taking this on without an electric screwdriver! You'll also need at least one person to help support the boards as they go up.

Hope all goes well - give us a shout if you get stuck.
 
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Thanks for that mate!
I will keep you posted on the progress
 
If your ceiling is very irregular, you may want to strap up timber battens, again mark off your joists and fit lengths of CLS (about 80 x 40mm) at 400mm spacings - I just zip them up with 80mm screws. To take the irregularity out of your ceiling, use a straight edge to check low points, loosen the screw and pack out as required.

Sorry to resurrect an old post, hope it isn't frowned on.

My dining room, kitchen and utility room all have very high ceilings and sit under a flat roof with about 1/2 inch of fibre glass as insulation! I want to add about 80mm of Celotex-type insulation tight up to the existing ceiling (to avoid condensation issues) and then board and finish.

If I want to put up battens/new joists (just to hold the plaster board) should I fit them along the existing joists or at right angles?

It seems it would be easier to fit at right angles (and use joist hangers at either end) as I then could use metal fittings to fix old joist to new, rather than trying to screw through the new joists (which will only have to support the plasterboard, not the roof).
 
Yes, 90 degrees to existing is a lot easier and you can get the new joists exactly where you want them - big help when you're going from imperial to metric in older buildings.

I don't see any need for joist hangers unless you're droppping the ceiling in which case you're in a whole different ballpark and would be better talking to the builders forum!

I would still go for 100mm screws straight through the new joists into the old - used to do it with a cheapo 12V cordless without any probs (my new 18V Makita is a breeze). Highly recommend SPAX screws for this, design of the tips mean they zip in fast, easy and no cracks.
 

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