false ceiling
- Thread starter abalone
- Start date
Sponsored Links
how big?
It would be a lot easier just to put in a tiled or Clipso stretch false ceiling than a plasterboard one, IMHO, but if you want a plasterboard one then it's simply a case of fixing a stud frame and screwing the plasterboard onto it, like ordinary drywalling. There's a description of how to do it here. Replace the "-no%20ads-" by "ult" "imate" "handy" "man" (all one word) as this forum mods out links to loads of other fora.
Scrit
Scrit
Sponsored Links
http://www.ultimate@@@handyman@@@.co.uk/PLASTER_BOARDING_A_CEILING.htm - just remove the @s because the people who run this forum moderate out references to other fora
Scrit
Scrit
Ive done a lot of this work on proerties ive developed, usually on ceilings of over 9 foot in height with deteriorating lathe and plaster...
Use 3x2" cls/scant to run a rail level around the room fix with hammer/frame fixings.
The cross battoning to be done with the same timber with centres fixed for fixing plasterboard. If your working by yourself its best to use handiboard which is 900mm by 1220mm. you should have a x latticework with centres to butt plasterboard together. use a string line to make sure that all of the centres are equally spaced.
the lattice work should be fixed thru to the existing joists to stop it from sagging or flexing. use short pieces of off cut 3x2 fixed with 4"(10s/12s) screws to fix flat thru the plaster into the joists. cut legs of timber to fix lattice to these off cuts (fixed to existing joists)
make sure that all screws underneath are countersunk so that the pasterboard aint damaged when you fix it.
before you fix the plasterboard turn off the lecky and unscrew the ceiling rose on the light fitting(s). Dont tug hard on the lighting cable... sometimes it has a nasty habit of damaging connections to junction boxes and ya doont wanna start taking up boards in the floor above! If enough spare cable pulls through your ok. if not, it will need extending.
You will have to use 1.5mm twin and earth cable. Note that if there is no earth wire (and on sum 50s 60s 70s builds there often isnt
you should only use plastic light fittings unless you installl supplementary earth bonding.... if in doubt consult a qualified electrician. You might want to install additional ceiling lights. Ask an electrician's advice as this will require figuring out how the existing ceiling rose has been wired.
offer up the pasterboard and fix with min 25mm dry wall screws. Try and get the butt joints as close together or you'll end up having to fill the gaps with plaster before applying the finishing coat. Accurately drill hole for light cable and introduce cable thru hole and fix board Cover all screw heads and tape along all joints with self adhesive scrim tape.
Apply finish coat of plaster.
good luck.Would be interested to find out how you got on
Use 3x2" cls/scant to run a rail level around the room fix with hammer/frame fixings.
The cross battoning to be done with the same timber with centres fixed for fixing plasterboard. If your working by yourself its best to use handiboard which is 900mm by 1220mm. you should have a x latticework with centres to butt plasterboard together. use a string line to make sure that all of the centres are equally spaced.
the lattice work should be fixed thru to the existing joists to stop it from sagging or flexing. use short pieces of off cut 3x2 fixed with 4"(10s/12s) screws to fix flat thru the plaster into the joists. cut legs of timber to fix lattice to these off cuts (fixed to existing joists)
make sure that all screws underneath are countersunk so that the pasterboard aint damaged when you fix it.
before you fix the plasterboard turn off the lecky and unscrew the ceiling rose on the light fitting(s). Dont tug hard on the lighting cable... sometimes it has a nasty habit of damaging connections to junction boxes and ya doont wanna start taking up boards in the floor above! If enough spare cable pulls through your ok. if not, it will need extending.
You will have to use 1.5mm twin and earth cable. Note that if there is no earth wire (and on sum 50s 60s 70s builds there often isnt
you should only use plastic light fittings unless you installl supplementary earth bonding.... if in doubt consult a qualified electrician. You might want to install additional ceiling lights. Ask an electrician's advice as this will require figuring out how the existing ceiling rose has been wired. offer up the pasterboard and fix with min 25mm dry wall screws. Try and get the butt joints as close together or you'll end up having to fill the gaps with plaster before applying the finishing coat. Accurately drill hole for light cable and introduce cable thru hole and fix board Cover all screw heads and tape along all joints with self adhesive scrim tape.
Apply finish coat of plaster.
good luck.Would be interested to find out how you got on
sorry 4 taking so long to reply...
you can put spots in no problem if you have plastered plasterboard to go thru...
you will need to use a hole cutter (one with teeth for drilling thru wood... not a masonry hole cutter) you will have to run the cable(s) to an approximate location of the spots and fix to the timber subframe... get sum1 with small hands to reach in and pull the cable thru. dont pull too hard or you will run the risk of creating a loose connection and the last thing you wanna do is start rooting around on the upper floor or the roof space, lifting boards etc....trying to locate it!
turn off the electricity or flip out the rcd on the consumer unit
carefully inspect the ceiling rose in the existing light circuit. If there are 3 wires feeding the ceiling rose your in luck.... run these wires into a 4 port junction box which is approately rated for 1.5mm twin and earth cable. stick the red/brown into 1 terminal the black/blue one into another terminal and the bare earth wire into the third terminal in the junction box... dont forget to slip a pice of earth sheth over the bare earth cables wherever you connect them. you can then run up to three separate spots off the junction box. this means that when 1 bulb goes the others will still work...
If ya wanna just put 1 spot in then you can extend the circuit by using terminal block(chocky bloc) connector then you can extend the cable or completely cjange the location of the spot. always wrap sum electrical tape around the chocky bloc once u av made the connections.
id reccommend using 240 watt halogen spots rather than messing around with low voltage bulbs as you dont have to mess about installing a transformer to reduce the voltage and worry about whether the false ceiling will provide adequate ventilation to stop the transformer overheating.
you can put spots in no problem if you have plastered plasterboard to go thru...
you will need to use a hole cutter (one with teeth for drilling thru wood... not a masonry hole cutter) you will have to run the cable(s) to an approximate location of the spots and fix to the timber subframe... get sum1 with small hands to reach in and pull the cable thru. dont pull too hard or you will run the risk of creating a loose connection and the last thing you wanna do is start rooting around on the upper floor or the roof space, lifting boards etc....trying to locate it!
turn off the electricity or flip out the rcd on the consumer unit
carefully inspect the ceiling rose in the existing light circuit. If there are 3 wires feeding the ceiling rose your in luck.... run these wires into a 4 port junction box which is approately rated for 1.5mm twin and earth cable. stick the red/brown into 1 terminal the black/blue one into another terminal and the bare earth wire into the third terminal in the junction box... dont forget to slip a pice of earth sheth over the bare earth cables wherever you connect them. you can then run up to three separate spots off the junction box. this means that when 1 bulb goes the others will still work...
If ya wanna just put 1 spot in then you can extend the circuit by using terminal block(chocky bloc) connector then you can extend the cable or completely cjange the location of the spot. always wrap sum electrical tape around the chocky bloc once u av made the connections.
id reccommend using 240 watt halogen spots rather than messing around with low voltage bulbs as you dont have to mess about installing a transformer to reduce the voltage and worry about whether the false ceiling will provide adequate ventilation to stop the transformer overheating.
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
