fascia and soffit questions

19 Nov 2006
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United Kingdom
I'm having my double garage converted from two single up and over doors to one large double roller door. It was built approximately 25 years ago and is of single skin brick construction with a trussed roof covered by flat cement tiles. The fascia, soffits and gutters were replaced about 8 years ago with uPVC. As part of the door conversion the existing wood beam will be replaced with a steel (by coincidence the same height as the wooden beam) and a timber the height of one brick course will be installed between the steel and the roof trusses in order to provide for a mounting surface for the roller door. Thus the new beam will sit lower than the existing beam.

Thus the fascia boards will also need to extend one brick's thickness lower. The soffit boards will also need to be deeper as the new door will be at the back of the recess instead of in the middle of it. The total length involved is about 5.2m.

The steel will be installed by a builder and the door by a garage door company. I plan to install the replacement fascias and soffits myself. This brings me to a few questions for the diynot masses:

1. I've watched the video at http://www.swishbp.co.uk/installation/ and have also seen it on another website - the hangers that are installed for the fascias and soffits extend horizontally beyond the existing rafter ends. Why is this done?

2. How is the height of the fascia board decided? Is it done by measuring from the verge at one end to the soffit line?

3. From what I gather from the builder the soffit board will end up being completely un-supported from underneath as there won't be a central pillar or garage door trim to rest the soffit board on. Towards the front and middle I can nail the soffit board to the hangers. But what about at the back; can I glue the back edge of the soffit to the underside of the steel? If yes, what should I use?

4. I want to use a fascia/eaves vent rather than the circular vents that become filthy with dust and cobwebs. It also looks like eave trays were not installed 8 years ago on the garage as they were on the house. Thus a combined product would be ideal - is there an issue with using the 25mm ubbink product rather than the 10mm? As it's unheated the garage does suffer from condensation in the winter from time to time so extra ventilation would seem to be a good thing.

I'll probably have a few more questions along the way but would be grateful for any advice and answers.
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I was wrong; felt support trays were fitted. But the felt is pretty knackered and the equestrian who did the work just shoved the trays up with little regard as to whether they went over or under the felt.

So I need to remove more tiles and battens and replace the lower felt section. By how much should the old felt overlap the new felt and by how much should the new felt overlap the support tray?
if you take a couple of rows of tiles off you can work from above, the horizontal timber that you have seen in other situations is used to hold the soffit down on top of the top row of brick at the back, if your situation means that you dont have anything to push the soffit down on you can use the same method and nail the back end of the soffit up to the same type of arrangement. if the new soffit is a brick lower then add the size of the brick to the current fascia height and buy that depth. also the eaves trays need to be below the old or new felt, usually the bottom few inches of old felt is perished so if you stanley it of 100mm up first across you can get the eaves trays under without ripping the felt upwards
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They extend the hangers past the rafters just incase one or two rafters are shorter than the others so it stops the fascia board looking like it's going in and out because uneven rafter ends really shows on white plastic.

So, you need to start with the soffit board. So this is going to be lower, there is an easier way to do it without hangers, you can use tile lath instead. If you cut some short pieces of tile lath and put them flat against the brick, running up vertically so it sides against a rafter, level them all out to where you want them. Then do the same at the end of the rafter so you can use J. Trim at the back, screw it at the front then you can work out the height of the new fascia.
I know what I mean it's difficult to explain especially as I've had 4 pints at the moment.
Thanks for the replies so far. The steel and new door are now in place. I've used a circular saw to cut off the bottom inch of the existing fascia board so that I could fix in place hangers at the front edge of the roof trusses/rafters to mount both the fascia board and tack in place the front edge of the soffit. I've also put in a second set of hangers dropping down just in front of the beam to hold the middle of the soffit. I'll use a sealant/adhesive to mount the back edge of the soffit to the underside of the steel.

Thankfully the truss/rafter ends are nicely in line.

Here's an interim photo; I forgot to take one with the hangers before it got dark.


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