faulty mid position actuator or blown fuse?

that will prove your wall stat and programmer are ok.
so leaves it down to a faulty motor or the pcb in the actuator.
can you hold your multi meter probe one on one of the motor wires and one to earth on the motor casing and get someone to turn the stat up to max and then down again to see what volt reading you get to double check.

if you get 230 volt reading the motors knackered.
if you still only get 50 then the pcb will be faulty.
 
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I am home alone today. but I have had another go turning stat to max.

the readings are below (with black probe to casing),

white wire: 247 v
1st wire (orange) : 0
3rd wire (orange) : 90

2nd wire (blue, neutral) : 0
4th wire (orange,live from wall): around 60

how easy to replace the motor?
 
the motor is a ten min job the two orange wires and two little screws.
which you can remove the motor and check on it's own.
 
that's good. thank you for guiding me through it.

what should I look for to know the motor is ok or knackered?
 
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I have unscrewed two screws. can I just pull the motor out? is the casing part of the motor? The motor fitting seems quite tight.
 
the motor is seperate. it will be tight the cog on the bottom runs the lever on the end.
 
I have removed motor.

but how can I put power to it to test if it is working.

where do you think I can get a motor to replace it if mine is knackered.
 
plumbers merchants do them i think even b&q stock them.

make up a power lead to the motor and plug it in.
 
thank you very much. you are a star.

yep. if I can not find a motor, perhaps will buy a new actuator and use its motor to replace mine.

the power lead to motor needs a special rectangular plug.
 
I still need some help please.

today I have managed to buy a new motor and have replaced the existing one. seems to have the same problem that it does not respond to heating call.

does this mean that there is something else wrong my actuator?

when the power is off, the lever returns to water position. is this the default position when there is no power?
 
yes with no power it will return to h/w only.
as said yesterday either the motor or the pcb in the actuator.
 
thank you for getting back to me.

yes, you did say that it could be pcb faulty. Perhaps I should get a new actuator. How easy to replace actuator?
 
depending on age of valve early one you'll have to change the whole valve on later ones you can change just the actuator.
on the side is their a plastic lever you can push in and pull the top off opersite side to the w / m / h lever.
 
yes, at the right side there is a plastic lever, extending into the back of the actuator. The W/M/H lever is at the bottom.

Sorry. I am not sure which 'top' I can pull? I have already taken the cover off (undone one screw). do you think if my actuator is older version?

mid.jpg
 

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