FCU to Light Switch.

[Martin1972]

Hi, a quick question, appreciate any answers. I am trying to put a light above my dartboard.

I will be using 2.5mm cable coming from a plug socket into an unswitched FCU.

1.5mm from load side FCU down to a 1 gang switch.

1.5mm from switch to 38 watt angled light to be put on ceiling, to illuminate the dart board.

I think this is the correct way in regards cable sizes?

What I can't get my head around is the wiring at the switch. I understand the switch cable goes into the load terminals on the FCU.

Is there a diagram for the wiring on the back of the switch?

Cheers.

 

[pjcomp]

If you used a switched FCU you could do away with the light switch.

Using your suggested configuration, the 1.5mm goes from the load side of the FCU, the live goes to the COM of the light switch and the neutral to a connector. From the light siwtch to your light fitting, live from the L1 (or whatever it's tagged) for the switched live, and the neutral into the connector with the neutral feed. Earths go to earths.

Youcould also go to 1mm instead of 1.5. And don't forget to change the fuse in the FCU, 3A or 5A

PJ

 

[riveralt]

Why not have a switched FCU then you don't need the light switch and you just run 1mm from the 3 Amp switched FCU to the light with the live, neutral and earth already sorted.

However, given the fact that you are/maybe a lousey darts player you might want to think of some form of protection for the cable if it goes anywhere near the target area - would hate to see a wayward dart hitting the cable.

 

[Martin1972]

Cheers for replys both

I now realise I should have bought a switched FCU after looking at the diagrams on this site, I only bought them after looking how the spark done my bathroom fan and lights with an unswitched FCU above the door, for looks I am guessing.

I put a stud wall in next to the dart board for a score board and the switch will be a good 1.5 meters away from the dart board, you are not going to see me on TV any time soon, but a good enough distance that I'm not going to hit it

Thanks.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

As the above post have stated, forget about the one gang switch and use a Switched FCU as the functional switch for the light.
Using a 3-5A fuse and 1.00mm cable.
Just terminate it accordingly supply (from socket) line and neutral to supply side of S/FCU and load (light) line and neutral to load side of S/FCU and your earths (CPC) to the earth (CPC) terminals.

One or two/four questions about the socket you are taking the feed from.
What type of circuit is it, ring final or radial?
What size cable is serving that?
Is it part of the original circuit or has it been spurred?
Fuse/MCB size at CU?

 

[bernardgreen]

Unless you are 120 % certain of never hitting the cable with a dart then use a double pole switch or FCU.

This will allow the sockets to work even if the dart creates and /or after the dart is removed leaves a neutral to earth short in the cable.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

What score do you get these days for a double pole?

 

[EFLImpudence]

czterdziestka

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I believe that if your opponent is a member of a female religious order it's one nun dead and 80.

 

[sparkwright]

No reason why you shouldn't use an unswitched FCU AND a light switch. Typically the FCU would be lower down.

An FCU used as a light switch somehow doesn't look so nice. Having a separate light switch means it could be made into a dimmer - not that you would though in this case.

To wire this a 1.0 or 1.5 mm2 twin and earth cable would come from the load side of the FCU to the light switch, and another cable from the light switch to the light. At the light switch, the two neutrals get joined together in an insulated connector block. One live to one side of the switch, the other live to the other side of the switch.

 

[securespark]

What score do you get these days for a double pole?

Stupid boy, everyone knows that. It's twice that of a single pole.