Filling in chase and sockets

[dextrous]

Had another look at the thread this morning & it may be even worse; replacement windows is one thing but cutting new ones is definately notifyable & I can’t actually see any evidence that a lintel has been fitted in there.

Completely missed that

Sorry again Bachco for hijack, last time I promise.

Ditto

 

[NickB_99]

What other fillers do you guys use for small jobs?

For little bits I have needed to patch up and blend in in the past (e.g. damage after removing shelves),
I have used a polyfilla plaster repair which is easy to use and smoothed with a wet cloth after it has dried, rather than sanded. This made less dust.
So may present an alternative to consider for a thin coat to fill on top of the bonding.

However, I have not used the easy-fill product (others here may have tried both and could offer a comparison).
Personally now I would generally prefer to plaster and blend in, but the filler is at least another suggestion to consider.

 

[Bahco]

Update

Untitled

• Bahco
• 28 Jul 2009
• 1

Untitled

• Bahco
• 28 Jul 2009
• 1

As you can see there is a bit more work needed.

Any tips on how I can get a good finish. Thinking of maybe sanding blocks to get the wall flush but open to any ideas thanks.

 

[JohnD]

a broad metal scraper is IMO preferable to sanding. Quicker, less dust, flat finish without grooves from your fingers

However it is best done when the plaster is fresh and soft or cheesy. It might be too brittle now. Moisten it and see.

I only ever use (very fine) sandpaper on smooth-surface fillers for small blemishes. Many plasters have an open texture once you sand off the top.

 

[Bahco]

Am doing more chases and have bought a bag of browning for the deep stuff and to fill in redundant sockets.

Have I bought the right thing buying Browning?

Thanks

 

[Richard C]

I use Bonding, Hardwall or even render depending on what I’m up to/got available, I hardly ever use Browning but it will work just as well; just build it up in layers not more than around 10mm thick & alow to go off between. A little trick I use is to cut a square of plasterboard so it’s a snug fit in the box & wedge it in so it leaves about 10mm for the plaster & fill it in one hit. If your going to re-skim the entire wall, fill it out flush & run some reinforcing tape around the join before you skim to avoid any chance of it cracking. If not fill out to around 3mm below & blend in with filler rather than plaster.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Browning will do the job, but as RC says if the original boxes are sunk quite deep, Sticking a bit of plasterboard in the hole will help fill it out then tape joint and use plaster finish or bring the plasterboard nearly level just recessed a few mm and fill out with a filler and sand.
If you do plaster finish, try keep the edge of the joints on the old plaster clean so you don't build a hump up.
So scrape of an excess and wipe down with a wet/damp cloth, it would also be worth removing about 30mm of the old finish around the hole before applying tapes, so they are also not causing a hump.