I have a Baxi solo boiler, this is above and goes to the upstairs where the cylinder and pump are. I want to clean out the filter on the left. Can anyone tell me how to isolate this to do it or is there another way?
Filter cleaning?
- Thread starter wombats
- Start date
I have a Baxi solo boiler, this is above and goes to the upstairs where the cylinder and pump are. I want to clean out the filter on the left. Can anyone tell me how to isolate this to do it or is there another way?
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I have one of those. A Spirotech. It is very old, and predates the magnetic type. It works by having a labyrinth inside the body that particles fall into and collect. I do not find it as effective as a Magnaclean or similar. But it will collect small non-magnetic particles. I have an idea it is a Swedish design, originally used as a sediment trap in oil pipelines.
To empty it, you get a hose, such as a washing machine fill hose with the screw-on connector, which fits.
Unscrew the brass cap on the base. The cap thread is the same as a washing machine valve.
(It may then leak, so put a large basin or tray under it. If it leaks severely, drain the system first to relieve the pressure until you have fitted the hose.
The valve assembly unscrews, so you might find a new valve to fit. It must withstand high temperatures. Some Pegler valves may suit. Yours has white PTFE tape where it was screwed on. You must drain the system before unscrewing the valve.)
Screw on your hose where the cap was, and run it to a sink, drain or bucket
Reverse the cap. In the middle it has a sort of spanner that fits the square on the release valve. The chain prevents you losing it.
Undo the valve.
If you use a jar or bucket you can see if there are large particles among the sludge and dirty water.
In my case the filter is somewhat blocked with large particles and obstructs the flow. I have heard of other cases of clogging.
To empty it, you get a hose, such as a washing machine fill hose with the screw-on connector, which fits.
Unscrew the brass cap on the base. The cap thread is the same as a washing machine valve.
(It may then leak, so put a large basin or tray under it. If it leaks severely, drain the system first to relieve the pressure until you have fitted the hose.
The valve assembly unscrews, so you might find a new valve to fit. It must withstand high temperatures. Some Pegler valves may suit. Yours has white PTFE tape where it was screwed on. You must drain the system before unscrewing the valve.)
Screw on your hose where the cap was, and run it to a sink, drain or bucket
Reverse the cap. In the middle it has a sort of spanner that fits the square on the release valve. The chain prevents you losing it.
Undo the valve.
If you use a jar or bucket you can see if there are large particles among the sludge and dirty water.
In my case the filter is somewhat blocked with large particles and obstructs the flow. I have heard of other cases of clogging.
@John D
Thanks for your quick and detailed reply. Didn't realise this wasn't a magnetic filter, just assumed it was. I will try your suggested method about washing machine hose.
As this hasn't been done for quite some time, I'm worried that turning the valve may cause it to start leaking. What would I need to isolate if I needed to repair or replace the filter please?
Thanks for your quick and detailed reply. Didn't realise this wasn't a magnetic filter, just assumed it was. I will try your suggested method about washing machine hose.
As this hasn't been done for quite some time, I'm worried that turning the valve may cause it to start leaking. What would I need to isolate if I needed to repair or replace the filter please?
Quality filter you won’t have any trouble with the valve leaking.
Remove cap ,it also fits the valve to turn on/ off.no need to drain anything the system pressure pushes any sediment out ,couple of seconds will do
Remove cap ,it also fits the valve to turn on/ off.no need to drain anything the system pressure pushes any sediment out ,couple of seconds will do
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Want to put money on that?
Mine does. As soon as I unscrewed the cap it was obvious. I screwed the cap back on, bunged the F&E, and used the nearby drain cock to drain the system enough to take the pressure off.
If you only have a slight leak, put a container such as a grill pan under it to catch it until you fit the hose.
Long ago when it was new it did not leak and was an easier job to squirt the sediment out.
Only going of my experience having fitted a lot and cleaned them when servicing .
It is a sediment trap.
It has a labyrinth so that water does not spin around except at the top, the rest is still so heavy particles sink to the bottom. So it is better at catching gritty or spiky bits, than fine sludge.
It has a labyrinth so that water does not spin around except at the top, the rest is still so heavy particles sink to the bottom. So it is better at catching gritty or spiky bits, than fine sludge.
Then, it should only be a case of opening the valve at the bottom to drain it, no?
Thanks again guys. I've only just got around to doing this.
Some dirt did come out. After tightening it back up there is now a little weep from the small centre piece. Does this have an o ring that can be changed or would I have to change this part?
Some dirt did come out. After tightening it back up there is now a little weep from the small centre piece. Does this have an o ring that can be changed or would I have to change this part?
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