Firewood preparation

[d000hg]

(I don't see a better sub-forum for this - is there a dedicated forum I might visit?)

I had a tree felled in the summer, a 60' pine with base about 2' diameter. The tree surgeon chopped it into manageable sections which have been stored the last few months, but the larger pieces are pretty big.
We have more trees scheduled for removal and long-term aim to have a proper wood-pile to season our wood for a suitable time... this winter we may have to buy in.

Any general advice is welcome but I have two specific questions:

1. The logs are seasoning outside; should I have an intermediary storage inside... e.g. chop a bunch of logs into the right sizes for burning and store these inside for a week or more? Or if the logs are seasoned outside, even if they have got surface damp from rain, is this superficial and I can split them and throw right on the fire?
2. I've been looking at splitting axes Vs mauls. I haven't chopped wood since I was about 6! I'm about 5' 6" and in my mid thirties, but not especially fit or muscled. Any recommendations - should I favour one over the other or do I need both, one for the really big hunks of wood and the other to do splitting into small bits for burning?

Sorry for long post, thanks in advance.

 

[StephenStephen]

Because the logs are approaching 50% water when they're cut, the important task is getting the water out of them. evaporation is a slow process, and depends on surface area and ventilation - very much more important than rainproofing, so I wouldn't worry about bringing them inside early. What can help, though not always convenient, is to split them as soon after felling as possible. Surface damp from rain is neither here nor there.
I have sometimes wondered whether bringing a few of them in to bring their temperature up from outside temp to room temp might be a good idea, so the burner has less work to do to get them up to burning temp.
No thoughts on axes - though if it's pine it may well be relatively easy.

 

[d000hg]

I'd never thought about splitting after felling though it makes sense, to increase surface area.

Maybe I should get a lighter weight splitting axe first, and if I find some bigger logs are a struggle, then get a maul for a bit of brute force.

 

[bernardgreen]

Needs to be seasoned for a year at least, longer in possible.

Burning pine requires more care and attention than is required for burning hardwoods. Pine creates more soot and other inflammable residues in the flue or chimney than hardwood does thus more regular sweeping is a sensible precaution to prevent chimney fires.

 

[ellal]

I help out at a medium sized woodland, and the seasoning method used there is to cut to about 1.2m lengths, stacked, and covered on top by a tarpaulin for a year with the sides left to 'breathe'.

Then they are cut to log size and further seasoned for another six months or so.

As regards Axe versus Maul, if you have a sustantial amount to process then get both.

And add in a wood 'grenade'!

The Axe will normally suffice, and a Maul by virtue of it's bulk can get jammed - and you run out off puff quicker with a Maul!

However when used in conjuncion with said 'grenade', the maul can split tricky/awkward shaped/harder logs that the axe might bounce off.

 

[motorbiking]

The best tool I have for splitting is a maul. Its like a cross between an axe and a sledge hammer. Makes light work of logs, whereas axes tend to stick

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p14628

 

[RigidRaider]

Yes, an axe has a fine wedge and can easily get, er, wedged into a piece of wood especially if the grain is less than straight. A maul or mawl delivers a hefty point impact and the wide wedge won't get jammed. It's the most satisfying and destructive garden tool to use and you won't need a grenade. Do not buy a maul with a glass fibre handle, get proper hickory.

Split your pine four ways, stack for a year in a sunny place with good air circulation. Pine, larch etc. produces a lot of tar so the advice to sweep twice a year is good. Don't go to bed and leave the stove idling, open it up and let the remaining wood burn hot.

 

[Mr Chibs]

I use this maul, https://www.worldofpower.co.uk/stih...MIpKmIhK7h1wIVyrftCh05gQD3EAQYAyABEgLLzfD_BwE

Very satisfying.

 

[d000hg]

Reading around since posting this, there's a huge difference between a felling and a splitting axe and a maul. A splitting axe can be light but seemingly shouldn't get wedged, whereas a felling axe used for splitting apparently will get stuck immediately

 

[gasbanni]

Sorry to dissapointed you here, its not a good idea burning softwood, resin can adhere to your flue causing problems and the risk of a chimney fire and it burns too fast.

Hardwood first and last, you should also invest in a moisture meter to gain the optimum moisture content ...too dry and it burns too fast

 

[d000hg]

Luckily we've only the one pine to dispose of. A 60' leylandii.

 

[RigidRaider]

Make sure the wood is very dry indeed and burn smallish pieces very hot or the resins will clog your flue. Never leave it idling when you go to bed.