Wood Store Questions for the Woodburner-isti.

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Anyone tried storing logs outside uncovered then moving it into shelter for a week or so to dry out before burning it on a wood burner? Does it give any problems?

Reason being, I've noticed that, even in winter, the wood I store outside dries in 2-3 days no matter how soaked it is when I move it into the covered wood store. I was planning to increase the size of my sheltered wood wood store now I'm wondering if it's worth creating additional covered space. Just store it outside and move it in a week or so before I burn it.

Secondly I've got a load of Lleylandi(sp?) that I thought would be too 'sappy' to burn. So I was going to take it to the tip. However the bits I've burned as a test have seemed fine. So I'm wondering if leaving it to weather for a year or two and use it. Any reason not to burn Lleylandi(sp?)???
 
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If you continue to burn unseasoned timber, then you'll mess up your flue.... but that is your business.... Ideally you want a moisture content of no more than 20%
 
Needs to be kept dry for at least a year, you can tell when its ready when tiny hairline cracks appear across and between the annular rings.
 
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If you continue to burn unseasoned timber, then you'll mess up your flue.... but that is your business.... Ideally you want a moisture content of no more than 20%
From what I understand it's the build up of tar in the chimney or flue which can partly or completely block the flue therefore a risk of chimney fire.
 
Best way to store your logs is to stack them outside to allow wind to dry them through. Water content doesn't matter so yes it's ok to put them inside to dry out for a couple of days as long as the logs have seasoned outside.

It's not the water content that becomes a problem when you burn the logs it's the sap content that causes problem with flues. So once the sap dries out and you get a good rain it's ok to bring inside to dry the water out.

I'm all wood here in this remote cottage and we do just what you do. I used to keep logs in the barn but it took an age to season, so we have a large log pile to season then bring them into the barn to keep dry. We have wood all over the place but all in different stages of drying.


You need about 22% to get the most btus out of the logs.
 
Build a couple of woodsheds from pallets. Make sure you leave space between rows to allow the air to circulate. I read that wood seasons at about an inch a year from all sides so if you're cutting and splitting into 4" thick lengths you'd ideally need 2 years seasoning.
Burning wet wood is a waste of time, and don't put wet wood on to an existing coal fire hoping it will work that causes all types of dodgy acidic gases to go off too which will not only wreck the flue but the glass in the woodburner.

I got a supply of Lawsons Cypress- it needs the 2 years fully or is hopeless.
But yes, it's the howling wind that does the real work, wherever it's stacked needs to be open to the wind, and even carefully stack the wood so that it's not all jammed in tight.

Might get me one of those moisture testers though.
 
Birch too can be burnt green. I usually bring home a dead dry bit from the forest(a lot lighter than green wood) when out with the dog, cut it and stash it for the days when it gets really cold...
 
Air circulation is the key, our wood store is along the side of the house where the westerlies whistle through most days and we find that wood stored there is usually dry, cracked and ringing within three or four months. The wood is stacked on pallets under a sloping roof, open on three sides.

I did weigh a piece of very sappy freshly cut wood then leave it by the Aga for three months. When I re-weighed it, it had lost something like 60% of its weight. Amazing.

We avoid cypress and leylandii on the advice of our chimney sweep.
 
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