So how are you going to get an EIC and a Building Regulations completion certificate?
Fitting a elerctric cooker and hob
- Thread starter diycooper
- Start date
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I am not going to get a completion certificate. I have a my gas certificates, and epc certificates. I was talking generally saying my properties are safe and I would not undertake the work if I am not certain it is the correct way.
I have come here for advice to make sure the job is getting done properly.
I have come here for advice to make sure the job is getting done properly.
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- 8 Jan 2011
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In the event of fire/injury/death, if your work is found to be the cause/a contributing factor then because it wasn't tested & notified, your insurance wil be void and you'll be up the brown street without a paddle. Just because you think it's safe doesn't mean it is; just because it works does not mean it's safe.
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You can legally install it provided you notify building control first and pay whatever their fee is. Likely to be £100+
If you install it without notifying, you are breaking the law.
Neither of those options will ensure that the circuit is correctly installed or safe, and if it subsequently injures someone or causes a fire, you will be liable for the injuries and damage caused.
Where does the 10mm² come out of the wall?
Have you got a cooker switch on the wall above the worktop?
This is what you will have to have to do it properly.(if my picture appears)
//media.diynot.com/145000_144975_30553_81151516_thumb.jpg[/QUOTE]
(Click)
The manufacturers instructions says to use 2.5mm cable to connect the oven. Is it ok to use 2.5mm on the oven and 4mm on the hob on this circuit ?
Please get an electrician.
NO 2.5² is too small for the 32A breaker.
As BAS asked - do the Instructions state the oven should be on a 16A supply?
You aren't very good at answering questions that would help to give correct advice.
Where does the 10mm² come out of the wall?
Have you got a cooker switch on the wall above the worktop?
This is what you will have to have to do it properly.(if my picture appears)
//media.diynot.com/145000_144975_30553_81151516_thumb.jpg[/QUOTE]
(Click)
Looking at the diagram are you sure its ok to use 4mm cable to the hob and oven as the total watts is 5400 + 3200 = 8600. So if I divide this by 230 that gives just over 37 amps. Been looking at Butyl 4mm heat resistant cable which only holds 35 amps.
Also the hob installation instruction say it should be installed on 2.5mm squarded cable. The hob is 5440 watts, I thought this is not allowed ?
It is clear that you do not understand what is going on and you still have not answered anything that you have been asked.
I must advise you to get someone who KNOWS what they are doing and will KNOW it has been done correctly rather than you doing it then saying "is that what they told me?"
There are a number of options available to install your hob and oven which would take too long to explain here.
However, having said that, to explain for your information:
Because you already have a 32A mcb all cables must be capable of carrying at least 32A. This is why you cannot use 2.5mm² even though that would be enough for your oven. You can always use a larger cable than needed.
As you say the hob AND oven are 37A but the oven on its own is 13.91A therefore that is all the cable to the oven will carry. The hob is 23.47A - that is what the cable to the hob will carry.(won't go into diversity)
That is why the cable from switch to connector is 6mm². It will carry both loads.
IF the manufacturer's instructions state the oven should be on a 16A supply then this will have to be incorporated into the design. You see, so many variables which you do not understand.
This is notifiable work. If any new cables are buried in the wall a RCD must be fitted. Is there one already? Then the circuit must be tested to make sure it is safe and the protective devices will operate as they should.
I thought it would be prudent not to offer any further advice but I have replied again hoping you may understand better and hopefully engage an electrician because if you do it yourself you will not KN0W if it is correct or not
I must advise you to get someone who KNOWS what they are doing and will KNOW it has been done correctly rather than you doing it then saying "is that what they told me?"
There are a number of options available to install your hob and oven which would take too long to explain here.
However, having said that, to explain for your information:
Because you already have a 32A mcb all cables must be capable of carrying at least 32A. This is why you cannot use 2.5mm² even though that would be enough for your oven. You can always use a larger cable than needed.
As you say the hob AND oven are 37A but the oven on its own is 13.91A therefore that is all the cable to the oven will carry. The hob is 23.47A - that is what the cable to the hob will carry.(won't go into diversity)
That is why the cable from switch to connector is 6mm². It will carry both loads.
IF the manufacturer's instructions state the oven should be on a 16A supply then this will have to be incorporated into the design. You see, so many variables which you do not understand.
This is notifiable work. If any new cables are buried in the wall a RCD must be fitted. Is there one already? Then the circuit must be tested to make sure it is safe and the protective devices will operate as they should.
I thought it would be prudent not to offer any further advice but I have replied again hoping you may understand better and hopefully engage an electrician because if you do it yourself you will not KN0W if it is correct or not
I can understand that I have not been clear but I do understand now. That is completely clear and makes sense know that as I have a 32A mcb all the cables uses must be capable of carry this. Yes I do have a RCB and the feed cable is buried in the wall.
The hob is 5440 watt which is 23.47 amp which I completely understand but why does it say in the hob manual to use 2.5 t and e if this can only hold 20 amps.
I completely understand the circuit and I can explain it in full and every factor to make you believe me if want me to.
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Sorry I was looking at 3 core on a chart on a site.
Ok Firstly from the circuit board there is a 32 mcb fuse. Because of this all cables used have to be able to carry 32 amp. In my property there is a 10mm squared cable from the board which I know that 6 mm squared would of been adequate but it does not matter as you can use thicker cable but not less.
As my oven is 3200 watts and the hob is 5400 watts that is a total of 8600 watts which is 37.3 amps. As I only have a 32 mcb this is why the 10mm squared cable I have should be run into a 45 amp cooker switch. From the cooker switch there should be 6mm squared cable to to the double cooker connection unit, the reason there is 6mm squared cable here is it will be running both the hob + oven combined. From the double cooker connection switch should be 2 4mm squared heat resistant cable's run parallel to each other one to the hob and one to the oven. Meaning one of the 4 mm squared cables from the oven will be running 13.9 ams and the other to the hob will be running 23.4 amps. The reason they have to be 4mm squared here even thought the appliances will not be using the full amp's the cables can withhold is strictly because there is a 32 mcb.
Am I right in explaining this ?
Ok Firstly from the circuit board there is a 32 mcb fuse. Because of this all cables used have to be able to carry 32 amp. In my property there is a 10mm squared cable from the board which I know that 6 mm squared would of been adequate but it does not matter as you can use thicker cable but not less.
As my oven is 3200 watts and the hob is 5400 watts that is a total of 8600 watts which is 37.3 amps. As I only have a 32 mcb this is why the 10mm squared cable I have should be run into a 45 amp cooker switch. From the cooker switch there should be 6mm squared cable to to the double cooker connection unit, the reason there is 6mm squared cable here is it will be running both the hob + oven combined. From the double cooker connection switch should be 2 4mm squared heat resistant cable's run parallel to each other one to the hob and one to the oven. Meaning one of the 4 mm squared cables from the oven will be running 13.9 ams and the other to the hob will be running 23.4 amps. The reason they have to be 4mm squared here even thought the appliances will not be using the full amp's the cables can withhold is strictly because there is a 32 mcb.
Am I right in explaining this ?
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