Fitting a new outside stop tap, pipe and outside tap

[danlightbulb]

Hi all, I have a separate mains feed coming into my outhouse in 15mm copper. The old stop tap, pipework and outside tap need stripping out and replacing, the stop tap is jammed and I'm relocating the outside tap to the opposite wall. The main stop tap in the street works so I can isolate to do the job.

I'm not sure what is best to do the job. I'm keen on doing it myself but do I learn to solder and use solder fittings, do I use copper pushfit or plastic pushfit for simplicity, or do I buy a pipe bender and attempt to do the pipework run in a single piece (2 bends would be required).

Do I get a traditional stop tap or a lever valve these days?

If I decide to learn to solder I need a blowtorch. If I do the bends I need a pipe bender. Or obviously whichever system I go with I need the fittings as well.

 

[Mottie]

With just two bends and not having a blowtorch, I’d be tempted to use a couoke of compression elbows.

 

[danlightbulb]

With just two bends and not having a blowtorch, I’d be tempted to use a couoke of compression elbows.

Yeah ok, actually I can do it with only one bend if I rotate the outside tap elbow plate 90 degrees and come in from the side.

The elbow plate for the tap gets the pipe very close to the wall leaving no space for insulation. Need to space it off the wall somehow, looking neat and professional?

 

[denso13]

Compression is fine, remember an isolation and check valve on the inside. Just turn it off internally in frosty weather.

 

[danlightbulb]

Compression is fine, remember an isolation and check valve on the inside. Just turn it off internally in frosty weather.

There is no inside.

The feed is tee'd of the main incoming supply pipe underground, and comes up through the floor in the outhouse.

How do I space the pipework sufficiently off the wall to allow for insulation?

Current pipework. Comes up from floor goes right and then stop tap then continues to tap.

I want to fit a stop tap in the bottom left corner where it comes in, then bring the pipe onto the left wall to new tap.

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Soldering, you'll need wire wool, Flux, Solder as well as a Blow Torch, it's a lot of kit for a couple of joints.

Lever Valves seem to be the preferred option these days, but up to you. Standard Pipe Clips should space the pipe off the wall sufficiently for insulating, however, if you need room room, then short pieces of 15mm copper tube make excellent spacers.

Personally, I'd fit a Drain Off immediately above the Stop Valve, allowing you to drain the whole lot in cold weather, insulation wont stop the pipework freezing, if there's no heat in there already to retain.

 

[danlightbulb]

I've been seeing some stuff online that with bib taps it's better to use a liquid thread sealer over ptfe.

Gripaloc, loctite 577, or that rapid blu stuff seem all well used.

However typically I can't just go and buy these from screwfix, toolstation or b&q - they all have to be ordered online. And they seem quite expensive.

I've tested my tap, and I can't screw it all the way in to get the position I want I need it backed off about a quarter turn.

Which product is best to hold the tap.in position tight and watertight?