Hi guys due to some rot/leaking I'm having to renew some sections of the floating floor downstairs, the floor is currently very cold and drafty. The plan is the following. I have lifted the current floor just to asses damage, its rough concrete + 2 inch bearers + floor boards with no tongue and groove.
Old floor under the floating floor is rough concrete with no damp proof course under the concrete as the house is old
1) The floor looks too rough to put a damp proof membrane down so opting for wickes liquid Damp Proof Membrane, paint over rought floor and up first brick on walls.
2) Roll out the brick wide damp proof course on top where the wood will sit to stop rot.
3) Put timbers down the length of the room, what width apart should these be (the height is two inches it's 2 by 2) it's currently 12 inches apart is this fine for the section I'm fixing. Do these need to be tantilised or just timber that I tried with something?
4) The biggest changes I was going to do was to push in celotex or similar between the wood choice to hopefully make the floor warmer, this will effectively fill all voids so might as well cover the air bricks from the inside I guess. Should I just push this right onto the liquid dpc on the concrete or put plastic packers into raise it a little
5) I was also instead of using boards for the sections I'm fixing using 18mm ply, does this need to be WBP and softwood or hardwood.
seem ok any advice?
thanks
Old floor under the floating floor is rough concrete with no damp proof course under the concrete as the house is old
1) The floor looks too rough to put a damp proof membrane down so opting for wickes liquid Damp Proof Membrane, paint over rought floor and up first brick on walls.
2) Roll out the brick wide damp proof course on top where the wood will sit to stop rot.
3) Put timbers down the length of the room, what width apart should these be (the height is two inches it's 2 by 2) it's currently 12 inches apart is this fine for the section I'm fixing. Do these need to be tantilised or just timber that I tried with something?
4) The biggest changes I was going to do was to push in celotex or similar between the wood choice to hopefully make the floor warmer, this will effectively fill all voids so might as well cover the air bricks from the inside I guess. Should I just push this right onto the liquid dpc on the concrete or put plastic packers into raise it a little
5) I was also instead of using boards for the sections I'm fixing using 18mm ply, does this need to be WBP and softwood or hardwood.
seem ok any advice?
thanks
Proctor battens (these have a rubber/plastic membrane on the bottom to dampen noise, take out any bounce and prevent cold bridge) insulation between each, t&g chipboard flooring glued and nailed with 2 1/4" ring shanks. The flooring could be replaced with t&g ply flooring (not as easy to source) or you could use V3 if it's to be laid in a moisture environment...pinenot
