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Deleted member 174758
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Floorboard rennovation questions
- Thread starter Dylan123
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Deleted member 174758
You ought to see the panic some site managers go into if you find some that isn't on the survey (all major building projects on buildings erected proper to 2000 required an asbestos survey, made readily available to all workers, by law). I've installed the stuff, back in the days when you hand sawed it and then went home white from head to foot on the days it was being put in - no masks either. Don't think I'd be quite as gung-ho today, especially as a friend of mine, a decorator by trade, died from mesothelioma a few years back.
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poor guy, I guess drilling into textured ceilings/grinding it off. Being below you’re pretty much breathing in clouds of it all day.
seems occupational exposure for a long time tends to be the key thing
just wanted to bump this as it fell off the page
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Deleted member 174758
Helps reduce draughts, reduces conduction losses as well. You can caulk the gaps, but you'll still have a cold floor. In addition mineral wool has good sound proofing characteristics. Big source of draughts is the gap between floor and skirting which you get ind buildings (shrinkage and settlement combined) - silicone (flexible), especially when used with something like Fossa Caulk Saver, can be a better solution than glue and sawdust, which is brittle and inflexible (as wood moves all the time)
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Deleted member 174758
He reckoned it was down to dusting off Artex ceilings (the older ones contained asbestos), but it could just as well been dealing with brake dust, which until the 90s were asbestos (he was always tinkering with some or other old wreck he'd bought for a few quid)
most people use carpet.
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Deleted member 174758
apparently I read some paint fumes back in the day causes methos....can’t spell but you know what I mean.
anyway, RIP to your friend, it’s not a nice way to go and criminal that just making a living can do this to people.
haha! I have a one year old and likely to have another in next couple of years and after she’s trodden food/****/pee/whatever else she can find into the carpet and I’ve had to clean them, again and again, the hardwood floor is appealing. Our carpets are covered in stains and it’s becoming like a huge dirty dishcloth.
my parents can’t understand hard floors and think they indicated poverty. These days it’s quite the opposite, everyone wants a hard floor. For us it’s just practicality.
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Deleted member 174758
Not really, or at least not solvents. Mesothelioma results from fibres of asbestos embedding themselves in the linings of the lungs causing abnormal tissue growth (pleural plaques) and production of excess fluid. Takes years, decades, to happen. If you've done much work with asbestos it can be a constant concern. And yes, the more often you are exposed, the greater the chance that you'll have problems in the future
Another question on this.
If I use loft roll and netting to hold it in place I am confused how to do this.
I was intending to use a staple gun with galvanised staples to hold the net to the joists.
I haven’t measured but I think my joists are about 7 inch or 175mm.
if I use loft roll that’s 150mm or even 100mm, this won’t be at the bottom of the joist it will be halfway.
so I assume I staple into the side of the joist? This being the case, I can’t use a continuous sheet of netting unless it kind of attaches halfway, and then is stretched over the bottom of the joist and then comes up the other side.
so do I cut netting for each joist? Seems fiddly.
or do I buy loft roll which is either exactly the depth of my joist or even a bit bigger, and the net kind of goes flush all the way? That would be quite a thick insulation layer.
Also, does it need to stuff up quite tight to the floorboards? So use more than the depth of the joist and compress it with the net, so it has force pushing it upwards?
lastly, I’m sure nylon garden netting will get brittle over time and possibly fail. Any recommendations on what to use?
Lastly - water pipes need insulating, gas pipes not and neither do electrical cables. How do I get around this? There are bound to be leccy and gas pipes running through the joists, do I just leave gaps in the insulation? Or do I just put a thin layer above and seal well from the top?
bit more to this than I thought! Thanks
If I use loft roll and netting to hold it in place I am confused how to do this.
I was intending to use a staple gun with galvanised staples to hold the net to the joists.
I haven’t measured but I think my joists are about 7 inch or 175mm.
if I use loft roll that’s 150mm or even 100mm, this won’t be at the bottom of the joist it will be halfway.
so I assume I staple into the side of the joist? This being the case, I can’t use a continuous sheet of netting unless it kind of attaches halfway, and then is stretched over the bottom of the joist and then comes up the other side.
so do I cut netting for each joist? Seems fiddly.
or do I buy loft roll which is either exactly the depth of my joist or even a bit bigger, and the net kind of goes flush all the way? That would be quite a thick insulation layer.
Also, does it need to stuff up quite tight to the floorboards? So use more than the depth of the joist and compress it with the net, so it has force pushing it upwards?
lastly, I’m sure nylon garden netting will get brittle over time and possibly fail. Any recommendations on what to use?
Lastly - water pipes need insulating, gas pipes not and neither do electrical cables. How do I get around this? There are bound to be leccy and gas pipes running through the joists, do I just leave gaps in the insulation? Or do I just put a thin layer above and seal well from the top?
bit more to this than I thought! Thanks
like this?
https://www.wickes.co.uk/Knauf-170mm-Standard-Top-Up-Loft-Roll-Insulation---6-47m2/p/109450 £20
https://www.diy.com/departments/kna...on-roll-l-5-68m-w-1-14m-t-170mm/663953_BQ.prd £24 but on offer £17
Now that cold weather has ended, homeowners will lose interest in heating and insulation, and you may see some clearance offers.
I have the advantage of an unheated garage below, so mine just lies on the ceiling. But I think that as long as you take extra care to stuff the ends of each run, especially against external walls, there will be no airflow running along underneath the floorboards, so the pocket of still air will be an insulation, rather than a source of draughts.
I don't think plastic netting will degrade in the absence of sunlight.
Water pipes are usually under the joists, sometimes through. So you put the lagging on the exposed ones, and insulate under the others so they are in the "heated" part of the house and not exposed to the cold. Electrical cables can have insulation on one side, but not encased, so that any heat can escape from the uncovered surface.
last question!
my joists are actually 4b2 with 16 inch centres. The loft rolls are perforated at different widths. 14inches (16 minus the 2 inches for the joist) is 355mm but I can only find 400, 600 or 386.
I am amazed they don’t make it for 16 inch joists as I thought that was pretty standard back in the day.
so, I presume I buy the 386 and then trim off the excess? Or can I just stuff a slightly bigger piece in?
sorry so many questions but you seem to know your stuff! Thanks!
400mm will squash in.
better a bit too big than a bit too small.
You can if necessary cut it with a breadknife or fine saw (easiest while still on the roll) or trim with big scissors, like wallpapering scissors.
better a bit too big than a bit too small.
You can if necessary cut it with a breadknife or fine saw (easiest while still on the roll) or trim with big scissors, like wallpapering scissors.
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