fluorescent fittings

[roger m]

I am currently building a workshop sized 30 feet x 9 feet and want to fit fluorecent tubes as the lighting source. I am not sure how many I will need to light this space.

I also appear to have a choice between High Power Factor / Low Power Factor fittings and do not know what this means.

The HPF fitting I have seen for sale is described as 1500mm long and 58W.

The LPF fitting is 1200mm long and 36W.

Can anyone give any advice?

 

[Spark123]

I am currently building a workshop sized 30 feet x 9 feet and want to fit fluorecent tubes as the lighting source. I am not sure how many I will need to light this space.

How bright do you want it? 3 x 5ft flourescent fittings to start with then add on from there?? You may find it better to put the lights above work benches as well. Also be aware that if you have rotating machinery you will need a fillament lamp next to the machine to overcome strobing.

I also appear to have a choice between High Power Factor / Low Power Factor fittings and do not know what this means.

Low power factor are for domestic use only. High power factor have a capacitor fitted in them. Brightnesswise no difference. The power factor is the relationship between current and voltage, see Power factor (one of BAS excellent links).

 

[Big_Spark]

As this is to be a workshop, I will assume (correct me if I'm wrong) that you will be using machinery or some other potentialy dangerous tools in there, or you will be undertaking some task that requires more light than usual.

If the above statement is accurate, then I would suggest 4 1500mm (5ft) fittings, I would also suugest that you use HPF units with electronic control gear. These may not be designed for domestic use, but they will be better for your situation. The inrush currents at start up are much lower than cheaper fittings and they tend to last longer, as do the lamps.

They may be dearer initially, but you reap the benefits in the longer term

I would suggest alos, that perhaps you switch the lights as pairs, perhaps the lights 1 and 3 on one switch, and lights 2 and 4 on the other. This will then allow you to moderate the lighting according to what your doing, whilst still giving you the option of bright light should you need it.

 

[big-all]

ok for what its worth i have just recently finnished my 12ft by10ft [internal size]work shop
i have as said above a 1200 tube each side above the work bench and on the other side above the flipsaw router area both slightly off centre covering the front half of the shed
and one more towards the back covering the storage area

now most off the time one tube will suffice as you only work in one main area occasionaly i use two just depends on area your working in

so basicly i would aim as said above to cover all machinery keeping in mind shaddows
once youve done that put a tube in any dark areas

also if your shed is like mine 6ft 3"under rafters youve got to plan allowing for the fact handling material may hit the tubes
so try and not fit tubes abouve traffic areas if possible so you wont wack with whatever your carrying as you pass

i would also individualy switch them for maximum flexability and reduced energy consumption
possibly in pairs diagonaly or connected areas

so i have 3 x1200 tubes covering 120 square ft so i would suggest about 6 or seven as you have 270 square ft

i used these https://www.toolstation.com/search.html?searchstr=56581

 

[securespark]

It's a bit late now, but anyone reading this as reference in the future may consider fitting anti-corrosives, not for their resistance to chemicals, but because the cases are a little forgiving of knocks, and if the tubes do break, all the glass is well contained.

 

[Stoday]

You can download Philips' lighting design software for free.

http://www.dial.de/e/index4.html

Not so good if you don't have broadband - it's 137 Meg!