fluorescent tubes and 12 volt

[hob goblin]

The whole idea was to use one light as more then one light creates to many shadows and too many colors to remove when chromo keying or when removing the background color with an arts package

 

[ericmark]

Then you don't want fluorescent.

If you get a CD and angle it to the light it will show the spectrum of light from any light source, no need for a prism today, see https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=13&v=EoAZ-u6hn6g

 

[bernardgreen]

LEDs fed from a Switched Mode Power Supply without the necessary current smoothing will create light that pulses at high frequency, Looks steady light to the human eye but plays havoc when the camera shutter is not synchronised to the pulse rate of the light.

 

[Tigercubrider]

I do chromakey on average Once a week for a living.

You'll never do it with one light source .
Unless you spend a lot on proper tv fluorescents (£800 per source last time I bought one) then you're in for a heap of trouble.

Some cheap led Amazon lights with diffusers will work
Light the screen first. Once it is evenly lit use different lights to Light the pack/talent.
Generally you'd have one lamp on 100% and another on the other side around about 50%. That's assuming the lights are the same distance apart. Then light the pack/talent from the rear at about 25% to make it "pop" and clear it from the background.
The biggest problem amateurs have is that they put the pack/talent too close to the green screen.
If you ever played "do you like butter" as a kid with yellow flowers you'll be aware of the chin going yellow as light is reflected. Keep a good distance between the talent and the screen to avoid this- the back li get helps with this.
Proper chromakey paint is high pigment high saturation and doesn't reflect as much but is expensive (rosco scenic paint)

 

[hob goblin]

I was told on another forum to get a fluorescent tube to do chromo keying. I have seen then use one in a shop for taking passport photos with

Using more then one light source will create to many shaddows

 

[ericmark]

I still use a camera mounted flash and a light triggered slave. The camera mounted flash can be set to bounce off the ceiling.

I have found problems trying to get shadows in the right direction, and have used standard LED lights, much depends on shutter speed at 1/30 second not noticed any problem with LED strobe effect. I think from memory with flash fastest shutter speed is 1/185 second, over that speed and I get cropping with standard flash, there are today flash guns that send out multi pulses so you can use a higher shutter speed.

I think my flash is around 1/10,000 second. Using LED bulbs designed to dim they flash around 100 times per second so a shutter speed of 1/90 second seems to work well, I think my camera can be set to 1/2000 second but that is not really the shutter speed, as the shutter in essence scans the image the first shutter is followed by second shutter so for both shutters to be fully open no faster than 1/185 second with my camera, some higher and some lower.

But fluorescent is a problem with colour, although tungsten is on the red side, as long as all lighting is tungsten it can be corrected, but because fluorescent produces bands of colour there is no way to correct, you can play with colour temperature slider as much as you want, but some colours are missing so you can never correct it.

What is more of a problem is different colour temperatures, take a picture in a room with two lights of different temperatures and again no amount of playing can correct it. The same when you get daylight and artificial light mixture, I know the collage where I studied photography the studio had no windows, so you never got a mixture of light, the flash guns provided the back ground light which was replaced with the flash. We had problems with the fluorescent lights, they caused odd effects from the coatings even when switched off, had to have diffusers covering the tubes so they would not effect the studio lights.

 

[Tigercubrider]

If the OP (who seems to know everything yet posts on a diy forum) is using a domestic "made down to a price " fluorescent domestic fitting then all sorts of flicker and colour artefacts will be an issue

You can buy photographic /video tubes that are either tungsten or daylight balanced
https://cvp.com/product/kino-flo_55c-k55