Flush door frame - can you take a look at my plan?

[jonwestuk]

Hi,

I have an under stairs cupboard that I want to have hidden type doors in and I would like advice on the best way to achieve a good result whilst minimizing any cracking from plastering over wood.

My current plan is to remove the current frames as they sit flush with the plasterboard and add new plasterboard up to the edge of the frame. I will then use thin edge stop beading around the door frame to protect the edge. The inside of the frame is then the problem as I will have a sandwich of wood frame, plasterboard and stop bead. I am therefore thinking of using a strong two part filler to create a smooth finish between the plasterboard and the door frame. Once sanded it should give a good finish (hopefully).

Once all that is done, I will use a push to open/close type door latch and a sprung hinge (like a wardrobe door) to complete the look and avoid having to cut into the plasterboard etc.

So I am really looking to you experts to determine whether this plan makes any sense. I couldn't work out if this was carpentry or a plastering issue. I posted it here because I figured that the carpenter would effectively define how the frame would work ahead of the area being plastered!

Thanks in advance for your help.

Jon

 

[Burnerman]

With mine.....I had a plastered wall in poor condition, that I covered with handiboard. I removed the door architrave and planted on a length of PSE 11mm x 50mm, butting the handiboard up to that. Architrave back on, the plasterer can skim up to that. Therefore, there is no raw timber for the plaster (not) to adhere to.
John

 

[magicmushroom666]

I've got a similar door, what we did was plaster up to a stop bead around the frame. Then inside the frame, we fitted some thin ply which had a very fine finish. This was then painted with a roller and gives a similar finish to the plastered wall.

 

[jonwestuk]

perfect, thanks for the advice.