Ford Focus 2001 LX Driver door

[roks]

Hi All,

New here and new to cars, just got a Focus LX, 2001 Y plate. I got conned I think. remote c/l was working when I went to see the car and I paid a deposit. Three days later when I went to pick it up, all of a sudden driver door does not open with remote OR the key. Guy fobbed me off saying it was the battery on the key.

Anyway, here are my symptoms:

All doors locked
- key does not unlock driver door or any other doors.
- remote does not unlock driver door but all passanger doors unlock.

So I crawl in and manually unlock the driver door.

From the inside I can lock/unlock all doors by manually pressing the button on the driver side trim.

All doors unlocked
- when remote is pressed, all passenger doors lock then immediately unlock, but no noise on the driver door.
- Key locks all doors.

Driver door is always dead silent, no catching noise whats so ever at all times that i've been fidling.

When I removed the trim on the driver door, I pulled the power cables off the (actuator?) and all other doors got locked. Then plugged it back in and all other door unlocked.

I've checked fuse no. 63, took it out for 20mins or so, that's intacked..(real pain to get to . Spayed some clean/lube spray in the key whole as well.

If I manually lock the driver door, the remote can lock/unlock all passanger doors but the key does nothing. Only thing the key does is lock all doors while all doors already unlocked.

Please can some one help me pin point the fault and the cheapest method to solve.

Thanks

 

[roks]

also, would it be possible to swap the locking mechanism with passenger door or are they different?

thanks

 

[Belle427]

sounds as if the actuator is knackered or the lock mechanism it controls has siezed up

 

[gregers]

could also be perished wires in the door(boot)big black thingy that normally unscrews,the wires that run through here are usually tight so there always under stress and then they snap.

 

[roks]

Thanks for your replies guys.

Is there a way to test the wires to the actuator, they are wrapped in a bundle with black tape.

Also, I took it to a garage, the guy thinks its the 'central locking motor' na dit will cost me £65 parts + £40 labour.

When I had the trim open, I couldn't see any 'motors' anywhere near the lock area. Only motor I saw was right at the bottom of the door, which I thought was the motor for the window.?

EDIT:
Guys, on a normal condition, does the front passenfer door lock/unlock any other doors with the key? Just noticed that, passenger door is does not.

 

[Spark123]

The lock motor assembly is probably in there as part of the door catch.

 

[roks]

Thanks guys, got a c/l unit from scrap yeard, work now but with some glitch..

Glitch is that when I lock the by remote, single press locks all doors except the passanger door behind the driver, with double press, all doors lock. And when I use the manual button on the driver door, 2 opposite doors will lock diagonally, but this seem to fix itself after the car warms up.

So I did the reprogramming of the key, everything worked for a while but as soon as I used the manual lock button on the driver door, its back to normal (un-sync'ed).

Also, the dodgy dealer ripped of all the foamy watershield stuff (presumably when he took out the working c/l unit). Should I buy a replacement, is that critical?

Thanks

 

[Spark123]

Think you need it the panel otherwise you may end up with wet feet.
Not sure why you are having such a bad time with the locking - I'll see if I can find a wiring diagram later.

 

[roks]

Its official, when the car is worm, c/l works fine from inside and by remote....I think I'll leave with that, Thanks.

About the foam, its on ebay, item number 180293295862, its the layer that goes between the trim panel and the door.

 

[Spark123]

Yeah - the foam panel has a plastic backing. I had the foam panel split on mine (mondeo) and water started coming in. Don't think they are that expensive to buy new from a ford dealer tbh.

 

[roks]

I've got the foam moisture shield, how the hell do I stick it to the door?
Will UHU glue do the trick or will that melt in the summer?

Some of the glue is left on from the previous shield, can melt it or something?

thanks

 

[Spark123]

I'm pretty sure it had some pre-installed sealant on mine when it arrived, I used some of that black gutter sealant to make sure there wasn't a gap a the bottom where water could collect.

 

[roks]

Thanks Spark.

I've managed to remove the remaining foamy stuff, used a hair drier and tried to leave as much of the black sticky stuff on as possible. Then I stuck the new one in (had the cut to lenght, alot longer than the door), then used the hair drier again and pushed into it as went along the edge.


The blooming central locking is still playing up. Every time I re-program the key it works perfectly, you can hear the zap sound on all 4 doors, sharp with single key press. As soon use I manually lock the doors from the inside (button on driver door) it screws up again.

When I press the lock button on the driver door, only two doors lock, then I press it again, 3 doors lock......it varies which doors lock but there's always one door that does not lock. However if I lock 4th door manually and press driver door button, it unlocks all doors.

After the above, now with single key press only the driver door locks. To lock the other doors I have to press twice to activate the deadlock. and the sound the from the doors are sluggish and slow but does lock.

Then for the last week or so, the remote does not want to work, I'd have to press the buttons several times and have to be very close to the door. So I thought it might be the battery, but same thing happens after I put a new battery. I dont know if this is due to the cold weather or the whole thing is just going to pack in.