fused isolating switches

[nickbg]

All,

Perhaps someone could solve my confusion. I thought that all appliances like dishwasher, fridge, washing machine etc needed a fused isolation switch in the wall above/near to the appliance so that it can be isolated without having to pull appliance out from under worktop. BUT my brother-in-law has just had his kitchen done and does not have any isolating switches.... is this ok or not ???

any advice or reasons why would be most welcome....

Regards
Nick

 

[LionelR]

Hi Nick, it's quite common practice to locate the switched FCUs for the appliances in the adjacent cupboards under the worktop so that there are fewer switches cluttering the wall. Therefore you don't have to touch the appliance itself to isolate them, but I'm not sure if this is strictly in accordance to regs?

I asked a similar question recently regarding cooker isolating switches and JohnD strongly advised they were highly visible rather than tucked away in an emergency....

 

[JohnD]

kitchen fitters, bah!

 

[nickbg]

hmmmmm so nobody has a view either way then ? thanks for the comments so far ...

Cheers
Nick

 

[breezer]

as an ex hp engineer, we always suggested a socket be fitted. reason?

we can umnplug appliance, know its isolated, then megger it before and after working on it

 

[The Jeep]

It's the new building regs that come into play here (Approved Document P, aka Part P)....there are certain requirements for how you set out sockets & switches in a kitchen, i.e. no sockets within 300mm of a sink, etc. Get the little green IEE book 'Electricians' Guide to the Building Regs' if you want more info.

However, it seems that there is some flexibility in all this, as trying to conform 100% with the building regs while fitting half a dozen appliances into a tiny kitchen can be a real brain teazer!

But it is recommended that all appliances have an isolator above the worksurface. I am installing a kitchen myself at the moment (sorry John D!) and am putting single unswitched sockets below the worksurface and switched connection units (with neon, but without a fuse if the appliance already has its own fuse in the plug, in other words a 20A DP switch, above the worksurface). Or you could cut the plug off and connect the appliance directly to an outlet unit below with a fused connection unit with switch above. Quite a lot of work, really, especially for the poor guy who has to do the tiling...

 

[Pensdown]

All,

Perhaps someone could solve my confusion. I thought that all appliances like dishwasher, fridge, washing machine etc needed a fused isolation switch in the wall above/near to the appliance so that it can be isolated without having to pull appliance out from under worktop. BUT my brother-in-law has just had his kitchen done and does not have any isolating switches.... is this ok or not ???

any advice or reasons why would be most welcome....

Regards
Nick

IMO FCU's for kitchen appliances are a bad thing. Appliances are supplied with a plug which means anyone can go out and buy a new fridge, bring it home and just plug it in. If it was fed via an FCU it's a small project. Cut the plug off, turn the power off, wire the FCU (which is often in a confined space under the worktop and not easy).

However, if the socket is not accessible for isolation in an emergency then a double pole switch should be fitted above the worktop to isolate the socket.

 

[bondy]

put it another way. if it comes with a plug, then why cut it off and wire it into a fcu above work surface. if its your kitchen, then you know where its plugged in. a socket outlet in the unit next to the appliance every time. where do you draw the line? toasters and kettles next.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

And what about a row of appliances?

And what if there is no unit next to it/them?

And how when the unit is full of stuff can you be sure you can get to the plug in a hurry if you need to?

15A BS546 sockets, and therefore unfused plugs, supplied either via FCUs or a grid of DP switch and fuse modules.

 

[Pensdown]

And what about a row of appliances?

And what if there is no unit next to it/them?

And how when the unit is full of stuff can you be sure you can get to the plug in a hurry if you need to?

15A BS546 sockets, and therefore unfused plugs, supplied either via FCUs or a grid of DP switch and fuse modules.

A grid of 20amp DP switches isolating the sockets is a neat solution but I can't see whats wrong with a 13amp outlet?

 

[bondy]

when have you ever seen appliances fitted with 15a round pin plugs. like, never. if anyone ever see you wire up an appliance like this, they would think you was pulling their pi55a. 99% of people only know one type of socket outlet.

 

[JohnD]

.... I am installing a kitchen myself at the moment (sorry John D!) and am putting single unswitched sockets below the worksurface and switched connection units (with neon, but without a fuse if the appliance already has its own fuse in the plug, in other words a 20A DP switch, above the worksurface)....

I think that's great!

 

[ban-all-sheds]

A grid of 20amp DP switches isolating the sockets is a neat solution but I can't see whats wrong with a 13amp outlet?

It means that the fuse is in an inaccessible location.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

when have you ever seen appliances fitted with 15a round pin plugs. like, never.

Sorry - I didn't realise you couldn't comprehend replacing the plug.

if anyone ever see you wire up an appliance like this, they would think you was pulling their pi55a.

Only the hard-of-thinking.

99% of people only know one type of socket outlet.

Another apology then - I hadn't realised that designs had to be constrained by widespread ignorance.

 

[bondy]

get real numpty.