Fused Spur or 20amp Double Pole Switch?

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Hi All,

I am in the middle of a refurbishment of my new home and have a few questions. In the kitchen I have 4x fused spur outlets.

2x of these make sense as there down rate to 3amp for the boiler and extractor fan.

All of these spurs are wired off the 32amp downstairs ring main.

The two I am questioning are for the fridge and washing machine, the switched spur controls an unswitched 1 gang socket.

Question I have is would these be better kept on a fused spur or a 20 amp double pole switch?

Also I plan on fitting an outdoor socket but I want to have control of this internally, so would I be best to spur off a double socket on the downstairs ring to a 13amp fused spur or a 20 amp double pole switch?

Thanks guys.
 
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There is no point having a Fused Connector Unit (the cable is the spur) with a fuse if the fuse is not necessary because there is one somewhere else like in a plug so a switch would be adequate.
 
Thanks for the prompt reply.

I was thinking it seems a bit pointless having the FCU to be honest. When the kitchen is refurbished I will switch them over for 20 amp double pole switches. I will go with a 20 amp double pole switch for the outdoor socket to be controlled internally too.

It's all original from when the house was built in 1998.
 
Also I plan on fitting an outdoor socket but I want to have control of this internally, so would I be best to spur off a double socket on the downstairs ring to a 13amp fused spur or a 20 amp double pole switch?
If you only want one outdoor socket (single or double) then again the fuse in an FCU is not necessary

BUT - if you want more outside then the 2.5mm² cable either must be protected by a 13A fuse which obviously restricts the current available
OR - be adequate for the 32A of the ring circuit; i.e 4mm² cable.
 
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Just make sure that no sockets in the kitchen are concealed behind the appliances ...........
 
Years ago washing machines had concrete blocks to keep them from jumping about, and some times they were made undersize and could come loose.

So having a switch not on the washing machine easy access to turn it off made sence. However today there is a vibration sensor which auto switch them off.

With freezers today they tend to be auto defrost, so again having a wall mounted switch to auto defrost is not so important.

So today the reasons for having remote switching has evaporated.
 
It will just be one single unswitched socket for a 10 amp car charger to be used from time to time if family visit. Guess I can always use the jet washer from it too.
 
Just make sure that no sockets in the kitchen are concealed behind the appliances ...........
Currently the washer plug is hidden behind it, is this a problem?

The fridge freezer is inside a cupboard.
 
Currently the washer plug is hidden behind it, is this a problem?

The fridge freezer is inside a cupboard.

Its certainly not accessible and I never fit sockets behind - plus appliances are getting deeper so often the socket and plug can be an issue
 
During the kitchen refit I will try to keep it inside a cupboard. Something to keep in mind. Thanks.
 
Thanks for the prompt reply.

I was thinking it seems a bit pointless having the FCU to be honest. When the kitchen is refurbished I will switch them over for 20 amp double pole switches. I will go with a 20 amp double pole switch for the outdoor socket to be controlled internally too.

It's all original from when the house was built in 1998.
It can be an advantage having switched fused connections units.

If the plug and socket for the appliance (which is controlled by the switched FCU) prevents the appliance being fully pushed back, it can be replaced for a flex outlet.

An switched FCU will also allow you the spur off the appliance socket, in the unlikely event you may want to.
 

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