fused spurs / double Pole Switches

[ColinHackett]

Help!! i'm getting confused with fused spurs / double Pole Switches.

Basicly i have a doube socket that is going to be behind a built in dressing table i am builing for the Mrs. (i will leave some room so that i can get to the plugs if needed.)

She wants to have her hair drier plugged in to one socket and hair straigteners plugged in to the other.

I was hopping to have the same sort of set up that you find in kitchens with the cooker, where as she can have a couple of switches (like a double light switch) above the dresser so she can switch either applience / socket on/off meaning they can be left plugged in without the worry that she has forgotten to turn them off at the appliance.

What / how do i go about this?

i'm thinking... unwire the double socket and wire in a double pole switch (above the table) with a spur running down to a single socket. (where the double was) carry on the ring to a second double pole switch and run a second spur and socket, the ring would then carry on as normal.

Does this make sense?

Can you get twin double pole switches so i can run both spurs from the same box (like a double light switch) but on the seperate switches?

Thanks.
Colin.

 

[Jackrae]

I think you've two options :-

a) Two single sockets adjacent to each other (separate back-boxes)

b) Two single sockets mounted into a "twin" back-box (which is about 1cm or so wider than a standard double box and has a divider plate and a front screw plate so that two single sockets can be fitted)
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Images/Products/size_3/AP636.JPG

 

[riveralt]

Is there a reason you cannot just move the current double gang socket up to 150mm above the dressing table level height.
This would remove the need for FCU's or double pole switches - it won't put any restrictions on the length of cable that comes with the hair dryer and hair straighteners and you can pull the plugs when not in use.
The safest way to ensure that are not left on.

 

[ColinHackett]

Thanks Jackrae, But its the switches / spurs part that is confusing me more than the sockets, its good to know that i can (with a small modification) fit the two single sockets in place of the double. these wont be on show but still want to do it properly.

Riveralt, There is no reason why i cant put the plugs above the table, other than i thought it would look better and as there the only things that would be plugged in it would be the safest way to have them perminatly connected.

Thanks.
Colin.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Can you get twin double pole switches so i can run both spurs from the same box (like a double light switch) but on the seperate switches?

Why not just have 1 switch for the double socket?

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

i'm thinking... unwire the double socket and wire in a double pole switch (above the table) with a spur running down to a single socket. (where the double was) carry on the ring to a second double pole switch and run a second spur and socket, the ring would then carry on as normal.

Does this make sense?

Yes

Can you get twin double pole switches so i can run both spurs from the same box (like a double light switch) but on the seperate switches?

You can configure this by grid switches, using 20A DP isolator modules.

A few things you must know before proceeding, permitted safe zones of cables, the requirement for newly buried cable and socket outlets having 30mA RCD protection.

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/DataSheets/MK/GridPlus.pdf

//www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:installation_techniques:walls

 

[ColinHackett]

Those grid systems look decent!!

I was also thinking about either putting some lights around the mirror of the dressing table or putting in a couple of wall mounted lights.

I have seen a couple of sets online that look quite nice but i think that i could make the same sort of thing for a fraction of the price as all you can see of the lights is the bulbs.

i have read else where on here that although not ideal it is ok to run some lights from the ring main.

If i got the grid system and wired it in to the main ring would installing a dimmer switch cause any problems?

Thanks.
Colin.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

You'd need to go through a fuse module first.

 

[ColinHackett]

Fuse Module?

Before the whole grid system or just before the dimmer?

I was thinking of useing one of these

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/VLP400S.html

Thanks.

Colin.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Fuse Module?

Before the whole grid system or just before the dimmer?

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/VL13FHB.html
Between the ring final circuit and the intersection of the lighting part of the circuit, fused down to 3A

 

[ColinHackett]

would one of these work?

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/VL13FHS.html

so

main ring
-
20a DP Grid switch (socket run from this switch)
-
second 20a DP Grid Switch (socket run from this switch)
-
Grid Fuse holder with fuse (What size??)
dimmer switch runs off fuse holder
lights run off dimmer switch?
-
main ring continues


Sorry for all the questions, and thanks for all your replies.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

would one of these work?

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/VL13FHS.html

Yes

so

main ring
-
20a DP Grid switch (socket run from this switch)
-
second 20a DP Grid Switch (socket run from this switch)
-
Grid Fuse holder with fuse (What size??)
dimmer switch runs off fuse holder
lights run off dimmer switch?
-
main ring continues

That will do, the fuse size
needs to be suitable for the load of the lights and to protect the cable.
The load will not amount to much, so would then depend on the type of cable/flex you fitted, a fuse between 1A and 5A, is normally adequate.

 

[JohnW2]

main ring
-
20a DP Grid switch (socket run from this switch)
-
second 20a DP Grid Switch (socket run from this switch)
- .....

As BAS asked a while ago, do you really need two separate sockets with two separate switches? Couldn't you just have one double socket supplied via a single switch? - i.e. so that the switched turned on/off the power to both the hair dryer and straighteners.

As a matter of 'detail' .... although, with your application, I don't think there really is any 'common sense' issue, some may try arguing that there are at least a couple of reasons why a 20A switch in a spur from a ring final circuit is not fully compliant with regulations.

Kind Regards, John

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

As a matter of 'detail' .... although, with your application, I don't think there really is any 'common sense' issue, some may try arguing that there are at least a couple of reasons why a 20A switch in a spur from a ring final circuit is not fully compliant with regulations.

Would it not be a more sensible outcome having a 20A isolator, protecting a single socket at 13A, rather than a double socket at 2 x 13A.

 

[JohnW2]

As a matter of 'detail' .... although, with your application, I don't think there really is any 'common sense' issue, some may try arguing that there are at least a couple of reasons why a 20A switch in a spur from a ring final circuit is not fully compliant with regulations.

Would it not be a more sensible outcome having a 20A isolator, protecting a single socket at 13A, rather than a double socket at 2 x 13A.

Yes, that would be one of the 'at least a couple of reasons' (if you consider a double socket to represent a potential 2 x 13A load). Another would be that you won't find a 20A switch/isolator which is a "BS1363 accessory".

Kind Regards, John