Galaxy 60 CO52 problem

[Nomez]

Hi All,

Hope you are well. Recently moved into a house which has an existing alarm that seems to be old but does the job. I had the carpets changed today and the carpet fitted accidentally cut through one of the cables under the carpet which set off the tamp alarm. The alert "Alarm in progress" came on the panel and after entering the code it turned off.

The carpet fitter tried to splice the wire back together and it did nothing. I took the panel off (which set the alarm for the lid tamper lol) and had a look at the board. It looks like one of the small slow blow fuses had gone so i did a test bridge to see if this was the main fault. The motion sensors began to work again but the one sensor in the living room does not light up (red or amber) as i went through the whole house checking them. When i activate the alarm, it registers a fault as an "intruder in the living room" even though no one is in there.

I removed the face of the motion sensor and the alarm goes off for tamper which tells me that there is power to that sensor or is somewhat working. I checked the cut cable and pulled the red cable which i assumed is power and it deactivated the hallway sensor (all the others work still), reconnect the red and the hall way sensor works again. So the wire that was cut must have been the hallway sensor and not the living room yet im not sure why the living room is not working???

I have ordered some slow blow fuses to replace the blown one, and not sure if i should replace the motion sensor (are all 12v pir sensors the same?) Anyway to test the sensor to see if something has blown?

I remember when i inquired with ADT for additional sensors around the house and they tried to upsell me a new system so im reluctant to call them. Just would like my house protected again! there is a number on the front panel which i will try tomorrow.

All help appreciated.

Many thanks

 

[GalaxyGuy]

You really need a volt meter to test the power supply to the sensor. The tamper and sensor circuit do not need 12v power, so the tamper does not guarantee power is present. Sensors are really cheap if a replacement is required. Wired sensors are generally compatible across all 12v panels.

 

[Nomez]

You really need a volt meter to test the power supply to the sensor. The tamper and sensor circuit do not need 12v power, so the tamper does not guarantee power is present. Sensors are really cheap if a replacement is required. Wired sensors are generally compatible across all 12v panels.

Thanks for replying.

So you are saying that when the tamper goes off when i remove the face of the sensor, that may not indicate that the sensor is actually working correctly?

Where would i be able to get a sensor readily available? I know i can try eBay but would like to rule this out but screwfix and toolstation have wireless ones.

EDIT: Do i just copy the same wiring for the existing sensor if i do get a new one?

Thanks again.

 

[Europlex]

Thanks for replying.

So you are saying that when the tamper goes off when i remove the face of the sensor, that may not indicate that the sensor is actually working correctly?

Where would i be able to get a sensor readily available? I know i can try eBay but would like to rule this out but screwfix and toolstation have wireless ones.

EDIT: Do i just copy the same wiring for the existing sensor if i do get a new one?

Thanks again.

So you are saying that when the tamper goes off when I remove the face of the sensor, that "may not" indicate that the sensor is actually working correctly?

NO >>> " it does not" only means that the tamper to that detector is working.

 

[GalaxyGuy]

Thanks for replying.

So you are saying that when the tamper goes off when i remove the face of the sensor, that may not indicate that the sensor is actually working correctly?

Where would i be able to get a sensor readily available? I know i can try eBay but would like to rule this out but screwfix and toolstation have wireless ones.

EDIT: Do i just copy the same wiring for the existing sensor if i do get a new one?

Thanks again.

The tamper/NC balanced circuit is separate from 12v power. If the power was missing and sensor lid closed, the sensor should always report OPEN at the panel when using display zones.

You can pick up a Honeywell IS312 sensor at many online retailers. Just take a picture of the previous wiring and post here. We can annotate to show the connections on the new sensor if labels/positions are different.

 

[Nomez]

The tamper/NC balanced circuit is separate from 12v power. If the power was missing and sensor lid closed, the sensor should always report OPEN at the panel when using display zones.

You can pick up a Honeywell IS312 sensor at many online retailers. Just take a picture of the previous wiring and post here. We can annotate to show the connections on the new sensor if labels/positions are different.

Legend. Bit of an update, bought a multi meter and opened the face of the culprit sensor and tested for 12v. Nothing came up, so i tried the wire that was cut and that read 12v. So this means that sensor isnt get power? I traced the wiring which was next to the wire that was cut for the dud sensor and found the red wire, cut it to test for power; still 0 reading and there is only a short bit of wire leading back to the board. I inspected the wire and i cant see any damage to it.

So i used the cable that does have power and bridged it to the dud sensor which is now working. So basically one 12v power wire is sending power to 2 sensors. Is it okay like this? I tested the system and i can set it fine, but i havent left it for an evening or day yet to see if it holds.

Also, can a blown fuse, which has been temporarily bridged until a new one comes, also cause the sensor to not receive power? I mean all of the other 6 ones work bar just one in the living room?

 

[GalaxyGuy]

Daisy chaining the power between sensors over short runs is fine. Shorting the fuse would not cause one sensor not to work.

It's not a good idea to short out fuses, as they are protection devices and any subsequent short circuit on the +12v line will likely damage the PCB in the panel instead of the sacrificial fuse.