1. Visiting from the US? Why not try DIYnot.US instead? Click here to continue to DIYnot.US.
    Dismiss Notice

Garden workshop construction

Discussion in 'In the Garden' started by Gossamer, 25 Oct 2018.

Tags:
  1. Gossamer

    Joined:
    2 Dec 2015
    Messages:
    241
    Thanks Received:
    6
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Morning,
    Just after some advice on how to construct the walls of a garden shed / workshop.
    Thinking from inside to outside:

    12mm ply
    Studs (75x50 treated cls) and insulation inbetween studs
    Tyvek breather membrane
    ~20mm thick battens over membrane, screwed into studs
    Featheredge secured to battens (with 20mm air gap).

    Is this reasonable? I was wondering whether to ply line the outside too.
     
  2. big-all

    Joined:
    12 Jul 2004
    Messages:
    17,323
    Thanks Received:
    1,270
    Location:
    Surrey
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    cls is 63x38[1.5x2.5"] so a bit too tight for 50mm insulation
     
  3. Gossamer

    Joined:
    2 Dec 2015
    Messages:
    241
    Thanks Received:
    6
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Was planning to use 50mm rockwool which is semi-rigid. I've used it in my house and it keeps its dimensions very well.
     
  4. big-all

    Joined:
    12 Jul 2004
    Messages:
    17,323
    Thanks Received:
    1,270
    Location:
    Surrey
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    it will probably slump so fill say the bottom 25% and an inch or so gap at the top assuming 2ft noggins
    70mm kingspan /celotex or other solid foam and 89mm cls would be better
     
  5. Gossamer

    Joined:
    2 Dec 2015
    Messages:
    241
    Thanks Received:
    6
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    I did think about bigger studs but for a workshop I reckon 75x50 is ample, and it will be ply lined etc so strong enough I reckon.

    I didn't understand your slumping comment tbh, why leave a gap at the top if it slumps?
     
  6. big-all

    Joined:
    12 Jul 2004
    Messages:
    17,323
    Thanks Received:
    1,270
    Location:
    Surrey
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    the gap is caused by the slumping :D
     
  7. big-all

    Joined:
    12 Jul 2004
    Messages:
    17,323
    Thanks Received:
    1,270
    Location:
    Surrey
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    actually scrub that rock wool is ok my brain said loft insulation lol
    yes it wont slump or drop but needs a decent airspace
    its not so much the strength issue its the heat retention issue
     
    Last edited: 25 Oct 2018
  8. Gossamer

    Joined:
    2 Dec 2015
    Messages:
    241
    Thanks Received:
    6
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Behind it will be plywood, and in front the membrane, which I understand is breathable and waterproof. Then a ~20mm gap to the featheredge (i.e. an airgap) so it *should* get plenty of air.

    Is it normal to ply line in front of the studs? I've seen some do and some don't (well most do).
     
  9. big-all

    Joined:
    12 Jul 2004
    Messages:
    17,323
    Thanks Received:
    1,270
    Location:
    Surrey
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    12mm ply then you can hang what you like off it
    other alternatives are 11mm osb
    tyvec or other breathable membranes are pretty good use a tack hammer to save ages
     
  10. Gossamer

    Joined:
    2 Dec 2015
    Messages:
    241
    Thanks Received:
    6
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    I meant in front of the studs, i.e. ply line, membrane, batten and featheredge. I am planning on not ply lining in front - membrane, batten and featheredge
     
  11. big-all

    Joined:
    12 Jul 2004
    Messages:
    17,323
    Thanks Received:
    1,270
    Location:
    Surrey
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    inside ---ply insulation air gap breathable membrane baton cladding ---outside
     
    • Thanks Thanks x 1
Loading...

Share This Page