Gardiner Technology - Gardtec 816

[smudgersmiffy]

My mother a VERY old system installed at her house, that no longer works, so rather than spending money on fixing up the old system, she has decided to get a new system.

I have an old Gardtec 816 control box and remote keypad that was removed from our house when we moved in, and I've been told that all the settings have been returned to default, including the engineer code.

Looking inside the control box, it all looks pretty straight forward - tamper and alarm zones etc. In her house, there's only going to be five alarm zones, so hopefully things will be pretty straight forward to do, bearing in mind all the cables are already there.

The thing that really confuses me, is wiring up the external sounder. The old sounder that's currently there, is old and doesn't work at all, so we're going to remove that and replace it was a Reson8 box from Screwfix (don't laugh, but they're only down the road and are easy to get hold of!).

In the panel, I have the following connections...

Strobe +
Strobe -
Bell +
Bell -
Bell Hold -
SAB TMP

I'm not sure what connections are in the Reson8 yet as I haven't bought it, but is anyone familiar how to connect up this panel to this sounder?

Any help much appreciated.

 

[Denford]

The Reson8 has standard connections..

gardtec ........... b/box
Strobe +
Strobe - ..........STB-
Bell + ..............D+
Bell - ..............TRIG-
Bell Hold - ........ A-
SAB TMP .......... RTN

 

[smudgersmiffy]

Thanks Denford - if it's as easy as it seems, hopefully I won't need to contact you again!

 

[saxondale]

check the engineer code HAS been defaulted / unlocked (power it up on the bench with a battery if need be ) - could save yourself a lot of trouble

 

[smudgersmiffy]

Great idea about powering it up on a bench and testing it - I didn't give that a thought!

I'll need to buy a battery for it. Screwfix do a choice of 1.2, 2.2, 3.0 or 7.0Ah. What do you think would be the best one, as I think all of them will physically fit, and they're all pretty much the same price give or take a couple of quid.

Any idea what I need to do to check if the engineer code has been reset?

I take it I'd need to connect up a remote keypad to test it, but what do I need to do when powering it up?

As always, any help much appreciated.

 

[saxondale]

Great idea about powering it up on a bench and testing it - I didn't give that a thought!

I'll need to buy a battery for it. Screwfix do a choice of 1.2, 2.2, 3.0 or 7.0Ah. What do you think would be the best one, as I think all of them will physically fit, and they're all pretty much the same price give or take a couple of quid.

fit the 7amp

Any idea what I need to do to check if the engineer code has been reset?

I take it I'd need to connect up a remote keypad to test it, but what do I need to do when powering it up?

As always, any help much appreciated.

connect the keypad, power it up then enter the engineer code - if it doesnt stop the buzzer you havnt got the correct code

defaulting is in the manual but if the code is locked you`ll not be able to default it

 

[smudgersmiffy]

Am I right in thinking that the default engineer's code is 1234?

If so, all I do is wire up the remote keypad, connect the internal battery, then a buzzer or something will sound. I then tap in 1234 on the keypad.

If the sounder stops, everything is fine and dandy?

 

[Denford]

Yep..thats about it.

 

[saxondale]

unless it hasnt been defaulted and the user code is 1234 - then your non the wiser LOL

 

[smudgersmiffy]

If the engineer code hasn't been defaulted, can I start an 0001, 0002, 0003, 0004, 0005, 0006...

Until I guess the correct code?

Just a thought incase worse comes to worse!

 

[Europlex]

If the engineer code hasn't been defaulted, can I start an 0001, 0002, 0003, 0004, 0005, 0006...

Until I guess the correct code?

Just a thought incase worse comes to worse!

Short answer to that is NO, you'll create a keypad tamper and will not be able to stop it, then you'll have some fun. But there again, if it's on the bench, what the ***l.

Have fun.

 

[saxondale]

If the engineer code hasn't been defaulted, can I start an 0001, 0002, 0003, 0004, 0005, 0006...

Until I guess the correct code?

Just a thought incase worse comes to worse!

LOL thats one way to do it, and as euro says it`ll go into tamper but I tend to do that anyway and when then when the buzzer stops I know I got it

usually takes a few minutes ( there not hard to work out when you know how most of the trade choose them) but I`ve also been known to be at it for an hour

advice - if you do stop it with an engineer code, change the number to one you can remember straight away before you do anything else

 

[smudgersmiffy]

The Reson8 has standard connections..

gardtec ........... b/box
Strobe +
Strobe - ..........STB-
Bell + ..............D+
Bell - ..............TRIG-
Bell Hold - ........ A-
SAB TMP .......... RTN

The Reson8 I've got hasn't got the same configuration - it's got.

STB-
TRIG-
HOLD OFF -
HOLD OFF +
RTN-

I'm guessing the following:
Gardtec......b/box
Strobe+
Strobe- .............STB-
Bell +............... HOLD OFF+
Bell -................ TRIG-
Bell Hold-...........HOLD OFF-
SAM TMP............RTN-


Thanking you in anticipation

 

[saxondale]

yep - make sure the bellbox sends a negative return back to the panel (it probably is the standard setting but on some ext sounders you do need to select negative or positive when you install it)

 

[smudgersmiffy]

Hey - denford, saxondale and europlex - thanks for all your help with my project so far.

I've connected up a remote keypad, a PIR and an external box, then powered up my GardTec 816 panel. Luckily for me, the engineer code has been reset to 1234, so I was able to stop it making a noise.

I have a couple of further questions...

1. There's a remote keypad tamper error, even though - the lid is closed, so I'm not sure why this is. There's four jumpers to tell the control panel which ID they keypad is. What configuration of jumpers to I need to tell ID number 1?

2. The second problem is a zone expander tamper error. On top of the main board there's a zone expander plugged in. Although it's plugged in, there's no wires going from this to the main board - is this right, or are these additional connects for when you want to use a zone expander, but don't want to plug it directly onto the board? As well as the tamper spring for the main control box, there's also a smaller tamper spring that goes through the zone expander board. Does this do anything, or does anything have to close this switch?

3. When I finally connect up the PIRs, what configuration of wire colours is it best to use, or do all alarm companies use different configurations? I guess it's best to use red for +12v and black for -12v, but what about the tamper and alarm colours - or do I just use whatever I like, then stick to it for the whole installation?