Gas hob/Electronic Ignition connection query.

[rizla01]

Hi,

I am about to replace the cooker (Not bought yet but think I prefer hard wired cookers to 13a) with a wired in single oven using 6mm cable directly connected to cooker switch/socket as existing via a spur off below worktop)

Is there any way that I can connect the hob ignition to the same supply as the cooker or do I have to drop another spur from the 13a supply side of the cooker socket to below the worktop height.

I guess I know the answer but I am hoping for an easy way out.

Thanks in advance.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Yes you can split the feed for the ignition.
But if your oven is only demanding 13Amp or less, you could also consider a double socket outlet instead of the FCU and plug both the oven and hob in to it.

 

[fireman22]

not sure what you have got at the moment but as Prentice says you could just put the existing cable under the worksurface (6mm?) into a double socket, modern ovens are rated at 13 amps and could go on a plug top into one side of the double socket and the gas ignition onto a plug top and wired into the other. most ovens come with a flex already fitted, 1.5mm, which should go through a plug or spur to fuse it down as it is too light to go on the 32 amp breaker directly

 

[rizla01]

Thanks for the speedy responses.

If the cooker requires the 6mm feed direct (The one we are considering is a Samsung costing around £400 which is a DUAL oven (Not double),

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Samsung-BT6...r_1_1?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1311626215&sr=1-1[/url]

Would it be correct to feed the 6mm into a 30A connector box (The round brown thing similar to a lighting connector box but bigger - Forget what it's called - Age et al) then on to the oven, and then tap off a supply for the hob or would that be iffy since the hob will effectively be unfused?

 

[fireman22]

Riz if the oven needs a 6mm supply put a cooker control unit (which has a socket incorperated in it) on the end of the 6mm cable under the worksurface then run a 6mm from that to your oven then put a plug top on the hob flex and plug that into the socket job done
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_In...ate_Index/Ultimate_Cooker_Switches/index.html

 

[rizla01]

But I already have a switched 30A cooker control unit/Mains socket on the wall feeding 6mm to a spur for the cooker.

I just think it a bit unsightly to extend the 3core from the hob and poke it up the back of the worktop to plug into the socket and would obviously prefer a more discreet connection (While freeing up the socket)

 

[fireman22]

thats fine, just put another on the cable under the worksurface

 

[rizla01]

thats fine, just put another on the cable under the worksurface

OK. Would that be by way of a 30A Choc Block with the 13a wire poked into one side of said choc block?

 

[fireman22]

no, as per my earlier post take the 6mm which is under the worksurface into a new cooker control unit with a socket incorperated in it, then take a new piece of 6mm from this to you new oven and plug the gas hob ignition into the socket

 

[fireman22]

so the oven and hob are both wired into the new cooker control unit under the worksurface i mean, this will then free up the socket in your existing cooker control unit above the worksurface

 

[fireman22]

sorry Riz i may not have understood you, if the flex coming from the hob is too short to reach the socket of the cooker control unit fit a junction box and a new piece of flex so it reaches

 

[rizla01]

Ok.

But to save the cost of yet another cooker control unit would it not be OK to run 6mm direct to cooker from the spur box but also to connect a 13a supply from the spur, then to a single unswitched socket which I plug the hob into?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

as Prentice says you could just put the existing cable under the worksurface (6mm?) into a double socket, modern ovens are rated at 13 amps and could go on a plug top into one side of the double socket and the gas ignition onto a plug top and wired into the other.

No - pbod did not say that.

He advised plugging the hob in, for which all of the plug is needed, not just the top.

put a plug top on the hob flex and plug that into the socket job done

No - job not done - just the top of the plug won't be any use, as there will be no pins to plug into the socket.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

no, as per my earlier post take the 6mm which is under the worksurface into a new cooker control unit with a socket incorperated in it, then take a new piece of 6mm from this to you new oven and plug the gas hob ignition into the socket

so the oven and hob are both wired into the new cooker control unit under the worksurface i mean, this will then free up the socket in your existing cooker control unit above the worksurface

So you're suggesting he should have

CCU above the worktop
::
::
::
Cooker outlet plate below the worktop ==== CCU below the worktop ==== cooker outlet plate to connect the new cooker to.

WHY??

 

[ban-all-sheds]

But to save the cost of yet another cooker control unit

You don't need another one - ignore fireman22, he's bonkers.

would it not be OK to run 6mm direct to cooker from the spur box but also to connect a 13a supply from the spur, then to a single unswitched socket which I plug the hob into?

What do you mean by "a 13A supply from the spur"?

You just need a socket supplied by the cooker circuit to plug the hob into.

This work is notifiable so you are required to either apply for Building Regulations approval in advance or to use a registered electrician. I'd strongly advise the latter, as it will be cheaper and, tbh, you don't really seem to know what you're doing.