Getting engineered lock boards seated fully

[Cypermethrin]

I have some Greenkett engineered oak flooring (14 mm thick x 185 mm width x 2200 mm length) which is there Lock system.

Basically its like tongue & groove but there is a small ridge in the tongue and corresponging sip in the groove which locks the two together - without the need for glueing. This ridge is along both the length and width of the board.

Take a look here for further info - http://www.grupo-ig.com/in/g_inst.asp


My problem is that in order to get the boards fully seated I am having to really belt the wood extremely hard. Currently using a piece of 1ft length wood by 3 inch wide wooden block against the side of the board and then a hammer.

Can anyone advise how best to ease the forces required to seat the joins fully - I have thought about using sandle soap or beeswax as a lubricant which would help and a lump hammer !

Any help much appreciated.

 

[WoodYouLike]

Love to see how you can install the last row. Doesn't seem you can 'click' it in - in an angle like other click systems.

Doesn't the company have more instructions online? The 'installation' page only talks about preparations and things to be aware of, not a how to with their own product.

I stick to normal T&G every day. So, sorry, can't give any sound advice here.

 

[Cypermethrin]

The last row will be a challenge - think it will be down to sanding out the locking ridge and glueing like normal "tongue and groove".

There are some other instructions with the packs and indeed in the download of their catalogue - but nothing particularly enlightening.

See here http://www.grupo-ig.com/upload/descargas/GreenkettEngineeredHardwoodFlooringPLUS_KID07.pdf

Do you think sanding out the ridge and gluing as per T&G would do it ?

Thanks

Love to see how you can install the last row. Doesn't seem you can 'click' it in - in an angle like other click systems.

Doesn't the company have more instructions online? The 'installation' page only talks about preparations and things to be aware of, not a how to with their own product.

I stick to normal T&G every day. So, sorry, can't give any sound advice here.

 

[WoodYouLike]

I'm sure it works great in theory and in their R&D labs, but whatever will they think of next.
The only instructions are for their click-system, not the lock. Have you treid calling them?
Rubbish company to leave you struggling like that with a product they 'guarantee'

 

[Richard C]

It’s similar to the Westco flooring I installed & had very similar problems with 2 years ago. I eventually used a smear (& I mean a smear!) of washing up liquid along each tongue; got lambasted for it here but it worked a treat with no staining, no problems & it hasn’t fell apart.

 

[Cypermethrin]

Hi Richard

I had the same thought and wondered about the potential effect of washing-up liquid - and came up with the liquid beeswax option.

I have spoken to the importers and distributers in the UK and their advise is just hit it hard and use a soap/wax as a lubricant and all should be well.

I am hoping that sanding down the "lock" goove and a smear of something suitable will allow the final row to seat fully.....

It’s similar to the Westco flooring I installed & had very similar problems with 2 years ago. I eventually used a smear (& I mean a smear!) of washing up liquid along each tongue; got lambasted for it here but it worked a treat with no staining, no problems & it hasn’t fell apart.

 

[Richard C]

Hi Richard
I have spoken to the importers and distributers in the UK and their advise is just hit it hard and use a soap/wax as a lubricant and all should be well.

So they don’t discount it then; try using a slightly shorter block of wood, around 200mm; with the Westco boards, it was possible to insert the end in the adjacent slot so it slid in, if you see what I mean; that only left you to bash in the long edge. Try starting from the fixed end & work along towards the open end rather than hitting it in the centre but ease it in a little at a time or you’ll deform the short edge of the board; I found it got to a point where one good clout in the centre clicked it in.

Hi Richard
I am hoping that sanding down the "lock" goove and a smear of something suitable will allow the final row to seat fully.....

I also run some glass paper down the tongue but only one pass; the final row is a barstuard; a bit more sanding & you will need a decent hook tool.

 

[mattysupra]

slide the header in first and then work from the open end to the header, yes it will take some force but is easy when you master it. I have a 2 foot knocking block that i hit the flooring at an angle with. (hard to explain)

For the last row you will need a slide hammer.

This is the second fastest system to install, but there are alot of problems with headers opening on it after a few months. I would advice glueing the headers as you go.

Depending on which one it is, they have a contact adhesive on the tongue and groove that you dont know is there. However using some kind of lube on them will stop this from working and will cause the floor to fail.

 

[Cypermethrin]

Thanks mattysupra - good advice. I'll ensure we glue and slide the header in first and then work open to header as you suggest.

Take your point about the lube - from the technical spec on the website I'm pretty sure there is no contact adhesive - but will avoid using it to be safe.

Trying to source a slide hammer is difficuly - any clues ?

Cheers

Tim

slide the header in first and then work from the open end to the header, yes it will take some force but is easy when you master it. I have a 2 foot knocking block that i hit the flooring at an angle with. (hard to explain)

For the last row you will need a slide hammer.

This is the second fastest system to install, but there are alot of problems with headers opening on it after a few months. I would advice glueing the headers as you go.

Depending on which one it is, they have a contact adhesive on the tongue and groove that you dont know is there. However using some kind of lube on them will stop this from working and will cause the floor to fail.

 

[mattysupra]

you can buy a bar that has a lip on the front to hook down the side of the boards that you hit with a hammer, they come with some laminate fitting kits. I dont like these tho as they can slip easy and damage boards.

When gluing headers the pva will lube a bit but dont fill the gap or the glue will push the boards apart , just glue the bottom of the tongue.

When you look at the tongues is there any shinny coating of any type you can see?

 

[Cypermethrin]

Mattysupra

OK latest update - the two fitters have just phoned to say they cannot fit the floor - one has 5yrs experience and the other 20 yrs experience - alledgedly.

They are doing all the things suggested sliding in header etc etc - but are having real problem seating the boards. Having to hammer so hard the board are being damaged etc.

So much so I have told them to stop and leave !

Now I need some professional help - Mattysupra .......

you can buy a bar that has a lip on the front to hook down the side of the boards that you hit with a hammer, they come with some laminate fitting kits. I dont like these tho as they can slip easy and damage boards.

When gluing headers the pva will lube a bit but dont fill the gap or the glue will push the boards apart , just glue the bottom of the tongue.

When you look at the tongues is there any shinny coating of any type you can see?

 

[WoodYouLike]

yes it will take some force but is easy when you master it. I have a 2 foot knocking block that i hit the flooring at an angle with. (hard to explain)

Ever installed such a floor in a new build where the partition walls aren't even fixed to the ground? Great fun I imagine when the force you ahve to use to knock the boards in is bounced straight back to you?
Happens even with normal (tight) T&G' boards.

 

[Cypermethrin]

Mattysupra- I have sent you a Message !

 

[mattysupra]

yes it will take some force but is easy when you master it. I have a 2 foot knocking block that i hit the flooring at an angle with. (hard to explain)

Ever installed such a floor in a new build where the partition walls aren't even fixed to the ground? Great fun I imagine when the force you ahve to use to knock the boards in is bounced straight back to you?
Happens even with normal (tight) T&G' boards.

Work of a drilled battern

To be honest tho, if having to use massive forse the floor sounds faulty. Caused by worn bit in the manufactorer process. Also some floor need the correct knocking block to stop you damaging the product.

Anyway, 'woody' been on an inspection today of a failed floor! I will have to send you some pics!

 

[WoodYouLike]

Anyway, 'woody' been on an inspection today of a failed floor! I will have to send you some pics!

Yes, please! ! I'll put them on our FAQ & News site to warn about faulty product and faulty installers (Or faulty clients?)