Glow Worm 100e combi problem

I can see the problem. Landlords have a bad reputation under tradesmen. As for myself, I won't go out for an absentee LL unless I get paid up front for the diagnostics.
 
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I can see the problem. Landlords have a bad reputation under tradesmen. As for myself, I won't go out for an absentee LL unless I get paid up front for the diagnostics.

a) I didn't tell the bloke about the landlord until well after the 'diagnosis'

b) I'd gladly pay for a PROPER diagnosis up front

c) I'd be paying for the work myself in any event since the agreement I made with my landlord was for me to pay for the work and then deduct that from the following months rent, so no 'waiting' for payment

Hell, I'd pay in gold ingots if I could just find someone DECENT!!

The chap that turned up said "I can try changing that and that, but there's no guarantee that'll fix it, we'd have to see". That did NOT fill me with confidence. He then said "Better to go for a new boiler". What kind of 'diagnosis' do you call that?

I run my own business. When I turn up do carry out repairs on a customers pc, I diagnose the fault precisely before giving a quote. I usually get the job because I have instilled confidence with that diagnosis and given an honest price to do the job. I have now been in business for 15 years (15 year anniversary in October) and have never had a dissatisfied customer in all that time. Any remedial work I have returned and completed without hesitation. Very rarely have I said "You need a whole new pc" (not unless the PSU has blown and taken several things with it).

I would expect the same level of service in return.

Any chance (pleease, nicely) you could direct me to a previous thread with the part numbers listed for that DHW switch? If I can just do that myself so that I have at least replaced all that I can before calling someone in, I'd be a happy man.

Cheers,

Paul.
 
1. Make sure you find a breakdown specialist.
2. Most good breakdown specialist will agree not to charge if they can't find the fault, but will charge if they come out and do find the fault. This to prevent people from getting expert advice and then pay a handyman to do the work.
3. Several good guys on here that cover your area.
4. Download the service and installation manual for partnumbers.
 
You seem fixated on changing DHW water parts. If the pin is coming out then all you need to do is to change the gland IF its sill leaking badly.

I also require diagnostic fees paid in advance when dealing with a landlord. That enables me to confidently go quickly to sort out the problem.

I would have thought that it must be pretty easy to see if someone has any idea of how boilers work. Most good boiler engineers would know what a zenner diode does for example.

Tony
 
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Tony - you say about a zenner diode, that is electronics surely and far above the knowledge required for the majority of boiler breakdowns?
 
Most good boiler engineers would know what a zenner diode does for example.

Tony

Don't it allow current only in the forward direction like a normal diode, but also in the reverse direction if the voltage is larger than the breakdown voltage?

Mr. W.
 
Woohoo!

I've fixed the boiler! :eek:

I decided to take apart that DHW flow switch and would you Adam and Eve it it was fouled-up with limescale bigtime. Believe it or not, the diaphragm and seal were totally intact with little sign of wear, but the pin felt a bit sticky. All around the edge of the seal was limescale which is where I think the water has come through.

Scraped off every bit of limescale I could from all the parts (spring, plunger, pin - everything covered in limescale!) and then tested the switch. Well the switch was totally waterlogged giving a strange reading on the multimeter - not open and not short with varying resistance. So that must have been confusing the hell out of the pcb, since the switch should be either on or off. So duly dried out the switch with a hair-dryer and then measured it again and was operating perfectly. Lubed the pin with ZX1.

Put the whole lot back together and it works like a dream!!

DIY-the-hell-not! lol..

Many thanks to all contributors in the thread. I've learnt a great deal about boilers (and cowboys) during this episode. ;)
 
That doesn't make sense...

Earlier you said you disconnected the DHW switch assembly from the loom and the heating operated fine but the relays clicked.

Now you have cleaned up the DHW operating pin/dryed the switch and it all works ok.

Anyway, I would never re-use a diaphragm, you can't guarantee it will seal properly (it could start leaking at any moment). In addition the scaled pin will have damaged the PTFE/O ring in the cover gland.

I suggest the following parts are replaced....

cover 801201
diaphragm 801191
801189 switch

As mentioned earlier, the pcb requires checking/setting up. You don't have the knowledge or equipement to do this. Who carries out the annual gas safety check? You should not be repairing the boiler yourself. It's the landlords responsibility to find someone competent to do the job.
 
That doesn't make sense...

Earlier you said you disconnected the DHW switch assembly from the loom and the heating operated fine but the relays clicked.

Now you have cleaned up the DHW operating pin/dryed the switch and it all works ok.

Anyway, I would never re-use a diaphragm, you can't guarantee it will seal properly (it could start leaking at any moment). In addition the scaled pin will have damaged the PTFE/O ring in the cover gland.

I suggest the following parts are replaced....

cover 801201
diaphragm 801191
801189 switch

As mentioned earlier, the pcb requires checking/setting up. You don't have the knowledge or equipement to do this. Who carries out the annual gas safety check? You should not be repairing the boiler yourself. It's the landlords responsibility to find someone competent to do the job.

Well a slightly embarrassing admission here - the clicking sound was actually my fault. When I took the burner cover off to check the APS, the mains leads (blue and brown wires) on the top motor/fan/whatever the hell it is(?) transformer were cable tied to the APS pipes and when I pushed the pipes to the APS fully-on (they weren't on too well), must have moved the leads slightly - basically they were fouling the white plastic fan blades! Could have been nasty that, but thankfully no damage to the wires. I kid you not, the slight grazing of the wires on the blades really did sound like a relay, lol.

Anyway, I fully acknowledge what you say about the calibration of the pcb and will now try to convince the landlord to get someone in to do this as I simply wouldn't have a clue!

As for the switch and associated parts - yes I agree they should really be replaced in a perfect world and I'll keep a very close eye for leaks etc in the coming days. But since we are all desperate for a bath, will just take the opportunity to have one! I will order the parts you have listed (many thanks for this) and will do it properly in due course.

I have spoken to the landlord this evening and he is now gonna take out this plumbing plan/cover thingummy for 150 quid a year with British Gas, which he says covers against breakdowns and yearly servicing. Mind you, weren't they on Watchdog the week before last? Some bloke waited 9 days for a contractor to come out and then didn't fix it(?) Can't remember now... will have to watch that on iPlayer again and get the landlord to watch it, lol..

Anyway, again, thanks for your help. Much appreciated.

Cheers,

Paul.
 
When you get the new cover use the OLD screws.

Tell the LL to find someone local and shove his money into a seperate boiler account.

Have a look on the local forums for recommended tradesman.
 
Crap, think the switch has gone again ALREADY!

Didn't last long.. :cry:

If I disconnect the DHW flow switch again, boiler works fine on CH and no other clicking sounds.

Based upon this, is it really the DHW flow switch causing the issue again or could this be some other valve/component? Maybe water has leaked straight back into the switch. It worked perfect..for a while.

Getting proper fed up with this fecker now!!

mickyg, the system won't let me pm??
 
The limescale will have been caused by a long term leak from the pin gland.

Nothing you have done will have stopped that leak so I expect its leaked into the switch again.

Tony
 

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