GU10 downlighters 120'c cable??

[virgilns]

So come to wire my downlighters last night and the instructions contradict them self...

They state a 260mm min void required and a 140mm minimum clearance above thge lamp holder. BUT the lamp holder is only 90mm high, so makes 230mm in my book (my ceiling is 230mm!!!)

Also it states to use 120'c cable...

these are the lights:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-adjus...e-fire-rated-downlight-gloss-white-240v/35135

Can't even find 120'c cable anywhere...heat resistant is all 85' or 90'

anything in BS regs that would help me get a sensible answer to both clearance required and cable to be used?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

They state a 260mm min void required and a 140mm minimum clearance above thge lamp holder. BUT the lamp holder is only 90mm high, so makes 230mm in my book (my ceiling is 230mm!!!)

Ask the maker.

Maybe they mean a minimum 260mm si

[EDIT] That should read "Maybe they mean a minimum 260mm side-to-side" [/EDIT]

Also it states to use 120'c cable...

these are the lights:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-adjus...ated-downlight-gloss-white-240v/35135[/QUOTE]
They don't come with any heat-resistant sleeving? That's a poor show.

Can't even find 120'c cable anywhere...heat resistant is all 85' or 90'

Tell Screwfix you will return them for a refund if they cannot supply you with the cable they need.

Or start looking for H05SS cable.

 

[virgilns]

LAP are closed now - will try again tomorrow...

They come with heat resistand sleeving on the lamp cable to termination block, but obviously not for the fixed wiring to joining block...

 

[virgilns]

Well, Screwfix are trying to find out what I need to do, but I don't hold out any hope.

Also LAP are a cheapo of cheap street imported light, so no chance of speaking to manufacturer...

Plenty of people have fitted these and said how easy they are to wire up, so I'm guessing that they didn't bother to adhere strictly to the mfr instructions??

Not worries about the ceiling void, as got that covered, BUT to all the electircians out there: if i presented you with these lights to wire in for me, would you use a heat resistant flex, or just run 1.5mm T&E to the lamp?

I need to answer my question today as it's either fit these or bin them and buy some robus ones where the instructions make sense!

 

[Chri5]

How's about some http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CA0dot75HR3.html


Even if your lights don't need an earth, use 3 core and still consider best practice which is to make sure the very minimum of cable(s) are in the heat zone of the fitting. So don't have runs directly over, come in from one side. Clip cables to joists to keep them away from fittings.

I didn't re read your post, but you should know watts / 230v give the amps / load. The cable needs to be rated above the load and even 0.5 mm 3 core PVC heat proof or butyl flex will be fine.

 

[Iggifer]

Also LAP are a cheapo of cheap street imported light, so no chance of speaking to manufacturer...

I have only fitted on LAP fitting, it was a 5ft HF fluorescent, and it was genuinely a pleasure to fit, a well thought out fitting, came with all the usual fittings for flouro's, a couple of blind grommets and even a stuffing gland which impressed me

Much nicer than the Tamsh*te fittings, absolute garbage, but not quite as nice as the Philips Pacific (these have no diffuser clips so are absolutely amazing to fit and maintain)

 

[virgilns]

Cheers guys..Screwfix were useless at helping so bought sone Sylvanas...much nicer light, 4 quid morte expensive, but so much better made...proper instructions and only needs a 160mm depth void and doesnlt require self extinguishing chilled fire and bomb proof kryptonite cable to run!

In and looking good!

Going to take LAPs back tomrrow..