Guttering Line

[mike42]

Hello All

I have what might be a boring technical question to some or a daft question to others but to me I just can't understand what to do.

1/ Where to tie the string line on the bracket? At the bottom where it cradles the gutter itself?

2/ Once the line is in place how to fix new brackets inbetween without interfering with the line? Or should I mark it off with a pencil before removing the line but doing that slows down the job as need to make more passes with the ladders/scaffold tower etc.

As ever, grateful for any words of wisdom.

 

[HERTS P&D]

Use a chalk line.

Andy

 

[Alastairreid]

Or put your 1st and last bracket on, then tie the line onto the brackets.

 

[Nige F]

Hello All

I have what might be a boring technical question to some or a daft question to others but to me I just can't understand what to do.

1/ Where to tie the string line on the bracket? At the bottom where it cradles the gutter itself?

No - at the top of the bracket on the flat bit - tight against the fascia - then you can get ? the screw in

 

[^woody^]

Bottom centre of the bracket

 

[mike42]

Well appreciate that Nigel and Woody understood the question but you've both given different answers so not sure what to do really.

 

[noseall]

Hello All

I have what might be a boring technical question to some or a daft question to others but to me I just can't understand what to do.

1/ Where to tie the string line on the bracket? At the bottom where it cradles the gutter itself?

2/ Once the line is in place how to fix new brackets inbetween without interfering with the line? Or should I mark it off with a pencil before removing the line but doing that slows down the job as need to make more passes with the ladders/scaffold tower etc.

As ever, grateful for any words of wisdom.

We fix the outlet then the end clip furthest away from the outlet.

We fix the line at the inside bottom of the gutter clip and through the outlet.

We set the new clips just below the line as the screwing torqueing up will pull the clip up to the line.

We place a screw into the tip of the cordless (using the long 150mm bit driver holders). It will balance there if the driver bit is new and correct. With the other hand hold the bracket and carefully apply the screw through the dedicated hole and screw-up.

We never fit any union brackets until after the line is taken down as these interfere with the line. We fit unions by eye after.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Work out what fall you want from one end, to the other, put one fixing screw in at each end of the run, with the string line taut between them, but not quite touching the surface you intend to fix to. The outlet will obviously set your starting point. You should be able to work your way along between, either pencil marking or drilling pilot holes ready for you brackets.

I find fitting brackets as you go can disturb the line, making the run not quite as straight as it could be.

 

[cdbe]

Work out what fall you want from one end, to the other, put one fixing screw in at each end of the run, with the string line taut between them, but not quite touching the surface you intend to fix to. The outlet will obviously set your starting point. You should be able to work your way along between, either pencil marking or drilling pilot holes ready for you brackets.

I find fitting brackets as you go can disturb the line, making the run not quite as straight as it could be.

That's my favourite yet, I've always done the line in the bottom of the bracket but it's hard work holding it to the line, getting the screw in the right place and not touching the line, especially while lying down on your scaffold. I don't have a long bit holder but 2 or 3 of the short ones joined together make a long one with a fair bit of give to clear the outer end of the bracket so the screw can go in straight.

I have a 10m run to do this week, I wonder if anyone can suggest a maximum length of string line or whether I should support mid span?

 

[noseall]

especially while lying down on your scaffold.

20151111_120510

• noseall
• 29 Nov 2015

 

[^woody^]

That's my favourite yet, I've always done the line in the bottom of the bracket but it's hard work holding it to the line, getting the screw in the right place and not touching the line, especially while lying down on your scaffold. I don't have a long bit holder but 2 or 3 of the short ones joined together make a long one with a fair bit of give to clear the outer end of the bracket so the screw can go in straight.

I have a 10m run to do this week, I wonder if anyone can suggest a maximum length of string line or whether I should support mid span?

You should mark the hole with an awl once the clip is positioned, instead of messing about trying to hold the clip and balance a screw on a driver.

A 10 m run will require a bracket at mid-point to take the sag out of the line. You need to not just wrap the line around the end pins, put also fix the line further back somehow to prevent the clip rotating as you pull the line very tight. Then eye it up and set the mid point clip to take out any sag.

Alternatively, measure up from the bottom of the fascia to each of the end clips, and half the amount at the mid point, and set the clip there

 

[^woody^]

We never fit any union brackets until after the line is taken down as these interfere with the line. We fit unions by eye after.

Take the rubbers out

 

[noseall]

instead of messing about trying to hold the clip and balance a screw on a driver.

If you mark the hole first, you can poke the screw through the bracket then press the bit into the slot and move it into position that way. You have to locate the bracket under the line prior to slotting the bit in.

We sometime pre drill the hole without the bracket in place and then do it all for real after.

A lot depends on tile overhang v's height of bracket.

Take the rubbers out

Or just fit them after. All you need do is leave the correct gap in the gutter and there is a central hole on a union to fix through after fitting. Look at lot of guttering and you will see many unions dipping and leaking.

 

[^woody^]

If you mark the hole first, you can poke the screw through the bracket then press the bit into the slot and move it into position that way. You have to locate the bracket under the line prior to slotting the bit in.

We sometime pre drill the hole without the bracket in place and then do it all for real after.

A lot depends on tile overhang v's height of bracket.


Or just fit them after. All you need do is leave the correct gap in the gutter and there is a central hole on a union to fix through after fitting. Look at lot of guttering and you will see many unions dipping and leaking.

Unless the union (or an outlet) is to be the end component where you need to fit the line to!