Halogen floodlight to LED?

[JohnW2]

Hi folks,
On recently reviewing a dusty rarely-visited corner of my 'storage', I found a number of brand new, unused, halogen outdoor floodlights, with linear halogen 'lamps' like the one illustrated from below (varying from 100 W to 500 W).

Most of them seem to be pretty well made, so it seems a pity to just throw them out, but I can't really think of any 'practical' way of adapting them to use LEDs of some sort. Am I missing something? Any thoughts/ideas ?

Kind Regards, John

 

[Wayners]

Swap the halogen bulbs for LED.

I've done that years ago although I found it not that good as it can effect the PIR and the on off function to override timer.
It depends on the light. You might have basic lights

I think you're better of buying new lights for what they cost as the LED bulbs are £10ish.

If lights were up then maybe try a bulb but the fact they aren't would put me off idea

 

[JohnW2]

Swap the halogen bulbs for LED.

Ah, I see that I forgot to insert 'the one illustrated below". Apologies. Here it is.

Yes, that's what I would like to do. If it wasn't clear, my question/problem related to the fact that I'm not aware of any LED lamps/bulbs (complete with 'driving electronics') that I could 'swap to' ... are you aware of any and, if so, what are they called?

 

[flameport]

what are they called?

R7s LED
There are two lengths, 78mm and 118mm

 

[AndyPRK]

Yes, use them with LEDs fitted.

Easy to change the LEDs if they fail.

If you want value for money, use Diall led replacments.

If you want maximum light, you can get plug in units with heat sink on the back and inbuilt fan ~£21

 

[AndyPRK]

Floodlights around 21 mins

 

[JohnW2]

R7s LED

Many thanks. It becomes very easy once one knows what they are called

There are two lengths, 78mm and 118mm

Thanks again. That was going to be my next question, since I was not sure how many lengths they would come in. My stockpile of ancient fittings are a mixture of 78mm and 110mm ones, so that's fine.

Kind Regards, John

 

[JohnW2]

Yes, use them with LEDs fitted.

Yes, that was obviously what I had hoped to be able to do - but I didn't know whether/that any suitable LEDs were availale. Now I do

If you want value for money, use Diall led replacments.

Thanks. I'll keep that in mind.

If you want maximum light, you can get plug in units with heat sink on the back and inbuilt fan ~£21

Thanks again, but 'maximum light' is not really something I'm likely to need.

Kind Regards, John

 

[ericmark]

@AndyPRK video link was good. Clearly, any integral units are to be avoided. I have one carriage lamp. And one wall lamp, as yet, OK, the carriage lamp since all LEDs shine down, is far better than the humble LED bulb.

My old halogen lamps went in the bin, moved to carriage lamp design rather than floodlight, rather a poor description as the carriage lamp floods the area with light far better than the flood lamp.

LED has been a problem, need the base at the top, so light goes down onto drive, tried using tinfoil, and it does help, but the bulb with base at bottom is not the best idea.

The main problem was lights switching off, before I had reached the main door to the house, so moved to smart lights, rather than PIR controlled, so can turn on with phone before leaving the car, and turn off with voice commands once in the house. Not found tube replacements which are smart, so for me, non-starter.

Maybe because of my age, I can't get to the door, before a PIR turns off. And standing there in the dark, with hands full of shopping, when the lights go out, is not funny. If there were no lights, I would use my phone, and carry less, but last thing I want is to be plunged into darkness on the steps to the main house.

I still have two outside lights on PIR and standard switch. But six are smart controlled, so I can find the main door. So I can go down the steps, without the lights switching off, half way.

 

[AndyPRK]

I too have suffered with lanterns with base at the bottom and therefore no light going directly below.

I replaced with osram led unit. Hung from the top. The difference is night and day.

It did have a metal plate at the bottom which I replaced with clear plastic. But I don’t think it was necessary.
They did a good job at getting light to shine in many directions. When you first look at it on paper, your first thought is that it will be useless

Here is item.

Osram Outdoor Lantern Classic Down Black - 4058075032361 | eBay

Osram Outdoor Lantern LED Classic Down Black Aluminium - 4058075032361 Body material consists of high-quality aluminium, encasing long life LED outdoor lighting, suitable for garden, garage and carport as well as terrace or balcony or the front door. Unrestricted outdoor use thanks to protection...

www.ebay.co.uk

Can’t comment on its life, as it has a short on time.

 

[SUNRAY]

R7s LED
There are two lengths, 78mm and 118mm

Which brings me to a question: I currently still use 300W & 500W linear floodlamps for theatre use, primarily for uplighting the auditorium, the main reason I still use halogen is the difficulty in fading the LED versions nicely, so far I've tried LAP 75W and Philips CorePro 14W with VCom, VPro and LAP leading and trailing edge dimmers (about £80).

Does anyone have thoughts on a LED system that does work?

In the absense of so far finding a combination that works without flicker, I'm sticking with delicate halogens at under £1 each.

 

[ericmark]

I was under the impression that the whole idea of quarts halogen lamps was to keep the envelope that hot that tungsten would not settle on it. So it would return to the filament. Running cool would defeat the whole idea, so use of dimming was not an option with quarts halogen lamps if looking for a reasonable life.

Running cool resulted in the quartz going black as the tungsten was deposited on the quarts rather than back on the tungsten.

So although quarts halogen lamps could be dimmed, it would reduce their life by a huge amount, so they should not be dimmed.

This does not apply to LED lighting.

 

[SUNRAY]

I was under the impression that the whole idea of quarts halogen lamps was to keep the envelope that hot that tungsten would not settle on it. So it would return to the filament. Running cool would defeat the whole idea, so use of dimming was not an option with quarts halogen lamps if looking for a reasonable life.

Running cool resulted in the quartz going black as the tungsten was deposited on the quarts rather than back on the tungsten.

So although quarts halogen lamps could be dimmed, it would reduce their life by a huge amount, so they should not be dimmed.

This does not apply to LED lighting.

Yes agreed and they do go very black very quickly.
I normaly use them on full power but dim them up or down. Think about an auditoriun in near darkness for a play and then the house lights come up at the end.

 

[JohnW2]

Maybe because of my age, I can't get to the door, before a PIR turns off. And standing there in the dark, with hands full of shopping, when the lights go out, is not funny.

I don't think I've ever seen a PIR whose 'on time' can't be adjusted up to at least 5 minutes - does it really take you that long to get to the door?

 

[ericmark]

Yes, not a flat garden, and I puff like an old train.