Hanging Flourescent Fixtures

R

ryanj

I've decided it would be a good idea to include a flourescent fixture, in a void in my loft, that will be used for storage.

Due to the limited area, it would be impossible to mount the fitting directly onto the ceiling area. I've saw flourescent fixtures installed, "dangling" down of chains, in certain shops.

Am I correct, in thinking I need to attach two of these on the ceiling:

COHP.jpg


Install two lengths of these chains:

COJC.jpg


And attach these to the chain and fixture:confused:

BGSC10.jpg


Also, since the fitting will be hanging, should I install flex (perhaps clipped down the chain), and terminate it in some kind of box connected to the twin and earth.

And, can any recommend any particularlly good flourescent fittings?

Thanks for your feedback.
 
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not sure about the physical mounting but from a wiring point of view i would say flex with compression glands at both ends is the way to go

one end compression glanded into the light fititng and the other end compression glanded into a suitable box (surface metalclad or surface pvc with round knockouts not a hard urea patress box) with a blanking plate
 
So, I'd be looking at terminating the cable in a box like this:-

BX3315G.jpg


I would run the 1.5mm2 twin+earth in with a grommet, is there a better way? And the 1.5mm2 flex out with a compression gland.

Inside the box, should I just use two butt crimps, with the earths being terminated onto the box with a fork connector, or is there a better approach?
 
ryanj said:
I would run the 1.5mm2 twin+earth in with a grommet, is there a better way?

You can use a stuffing gland (compression gland) on your T & E as well if you like - it might not give a watertight seal but it should grip the sheath nicely without unduly compressing any insulation. You could also consider joining your T & E and flex inside a conduit terminal box (1-way box like this) with a dome plate lid (like this) which will accept a gland, or even a threaded hook with a big enough hole for the flex to pass through.
 
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I would use a ceiling rose at the top of the chain, and a flex drop cable-tied to the chain.

A TRS gland would be good at the fitting, but the two monkey puzzle clips you show fit into the 20mm knockouts, so most people just enter this same hole with the flex.

As for makes - Thorn is one of the best, and fitzgerald, although fitzgerald hasn't modernised it range for some time, and they all look alittle out dated.

Look for a Thorn Pop-Pack.
 
A TRS gland would be good at the fitting, but the two monkey puzzle clips you show fit into the 20mm knockouts, so most people just enter this same hole with the flex.

So, I was correct in my fitting explanation?

FGDEP20.jpg


On that image, you can see two strips of raised metal, would they be for those monkey clips instead of the knockouts?

As for makes - Thorn is one of the best, and fitzgerald, although fitzgerald hasn't modernised it range for some time, and they all look alittle out dated.

Is there any online wholeseller, that stocks these lights?
 
I never buy on line for electrical kit, so have no idea on suppliers on line.

Those raised metal bits are simply spacers, the monkey puzzle clips you show fit into the 20mm hole of the fitting, pressing into the hole from inside.

There is a white plastic spacer attached to the fitting in your picture which unclips for this purpose.

Are you wanting a diffuser?? If you do, then the decent Thorn and Fitzgerald fittings sell them serperatly, and cost as much as the fitting itself. You may be better getting a complete assembley from a DIY shed.

The parts you shw to hand the light are fine, the two hook plates that are usually fitted to conduit boxes could be replaced by screw-in eyelets, this often looks alot neater.
 
Also, if you are fitting the light in a cold loft, you may be better going for a high frequency fitting, or atleast a ballast switch start type with an electronic starter instead of the standard by-metal type. Flourescents dont like cold-starting, esspecially as they age.
 
Are you wanting a diffuser?? If you do, then the decent Thorn and Fitzgerald fittings sell them serperatly, and cost as much as the fitting itself. You may be better getting a complete assembley from a DIY shed.

I don't think there is any need for a diffuser, the area needing to be lit up isn't that large. Unless there are other disadvantages?

Also, if you are fitting the light in a cold loft, you may be better going for a high frequency fitting, or atleast a ballast switch start type with an electronic starter instead of the standard by-metal type. Flourescents dont like cold-starting, esspecially as they age.

It's a loft conversion, the void is simply quite a large area that couldn't be converted due to height, it does actually get suprisingly cold though.
 
Those strips are spacers. They allow the fitting to be mounted onto a normally combustible ceiling without toasting it.

Yeah, I'd go with Lectrician using a rose. Cheaper, easier and less hassle. The other solns, while not wrong, seem a bit of overkill.

If you are taking the flex through the same hole as the monkey puzzle, use a 25mm grommet so the flex cannot chafe on the fitting body.
 
securespark said:
If you are taking the flex through the same hole as
the monkey puzzle, use a 25mm grommet so the flex cannot chafe on the fitting body.

Think you meant 20mm :D Flourescents have the standard besa fixings with 20mm holes.
 
BG566.jpg


So, I simply remove the flex and lampholder, run the twin+earth into it and connect a piece of flex and run it down the the flourescent fixture?
 
Yep, or buy one with out the flex and holder - wholesalers sell them.

Your picture shows a pendent - you want a ceiling rose.
 
Lectrician said:
Think you meant 20mm :D Flourescents have the standard besa fixings with 20mm holes.

All the fittings I have suspended, I have used the larger hole for the monkey puzzle which requires a 25mm grommet. The centre hole is usually 20mm....

Ryan

Don't forget to use three core flex and connect the earth!

Sure you would....
 

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