Hanging kitchen cupboard in garage

Discussion in 'General DIY' started by michael12345, 21 Nov 2021.

  1. michael12345

    michael12345

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    Hi,

    I'd like to put a spare kitchen cabinet up in my garage for extra storage. It has the following fixing as per the photos.

    Can anyone kindly advise what wall bracket/fixing I'd need in order to hang this securely to the brick wall?

    Many Thanks IMG_20211120_122015547.jpg IMG_20211120_121928529.jpg IMG_20211120_121901006.jpg
     
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  3. Mr Chibs

    Mr Chibs

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    I might be wrong (wouldn’t be the first time:D) but I think these clip on to a hanging rail that is screwed to the wall.
     
  4. big-all

    big-all

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  5. michael12345

    michael12345

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    Ok great that's very helpful. Would you recommend one longer rail for added strength or are smaller ones ok?

    Assume the fixings already on the cupboard simply fix onto these? Sorry if it's stating the obvious!

    Much appreciated.
     
  6. JobAndKnock

    JobAndKnock

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    Hanging rails are easier to install and get level than the puny little hanging brackets kitchen makers supply. They are also stronger and even in a ropey wall or a stud wall you'll always be able to get some fixes in the wall to carry the rail. For a run of cabinets you will need to cut notches out at the back of the cabinets to allow the rails to run through

    Long Hanging Rail for Kitchen Cabinet.jpg

    If you intend to load these up with lots of weighty items it's also a good idea to fix a timber batten (2 x 1in lath will do) to the wall running beneath the cabinets to give them a bit of extra support
     
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  7. michael12345

    michael12345

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    Ok, I have a few of these brackets as below. Do you think they will suitable/strong enough to hang the cupboard?

    The wall I wish to attach to is actually thermalite I believe. Any recommendations on screw length and corresponding wall fixing would be appreciated. Thank you.

    download.jpeg
     
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  9. JobAndKnock

    JobAndKnock

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    They are, but in Thermalites you may struggle to get them levelled up properly or even in the right places because those blocks can be a PIA to drill accurately. For lightweight blocks I find the longer rails are a lot easier to level up, partly because if one hole wanders off, falls on a crack or a mortar joint you can always put anothervin to left or right. BTW in terms of drilling turn the hammer action off if using an SDS drll, and if using brown plugs (normally a 7mm hole) use either a 6.5mm our even a 6mm drill bit (and make sure that your drill bit is straight)
     
  10. michael12345

    michael12345

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    Ok great, thanks that makes sense.

    I've been reading about possibly getting specialist plugs specifically designed for thermalite but in your opinion do you think normal brown plugs will suffice?
    Assume a 50mm length screw would be ok for this too..
     
  11. JobAndKnock

    JobAndKnock

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    The specialist plugs expand outwards and are a better solution if you can get hold of them. 4.5 x 50 screws are good (5.0 x 50s may have too big a head)
     
  12. michael12345

    michael12345

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    Super, thanks for all your advice!
    :)
     
  13. JohnD

    JohnD

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    the hanging rails as recommended above are great, can be very strong with plenty of screws and you can add extra cabs, or move them around, with great ease. You will need to make a rail-shaped notch in the sides of the cabinets so they can press neatly against the wall. There is a way of hiding this in an elegant kitchen, and you can paint the rail to match the wall, but it doesn't matter in a garage.

    btw a simple DIY way of setting plugs into crumbly blocks or awkward bricks, clean out all the dust with a vac, and squirt in some builders adhesive, of the no-more-nails type, starting with the nozzle right at the back of the hole so there is no air bubble. Press in your plasplugs so that they squeeze into the adhesive; clean off excess; leave to set overnight before driving in your screws. The adhesive will prevent the plugs from rotating and will transmit the expansive force to the block with no crumbling.

    When using the long rails, screw in one end, then adjust the rail for level, drill and screw the one at the other end, then use the holes in the rail as the guide for all the other holes. having marked them, you can undo one of the end screws and let the rail swivel out of your way. As a minimum, you need one screw at each end, and one within a few of inches of each place where a hanger will go. Cabs are usually in 500mm or 600mm widths.

    you can also hang tools or coats direct to the rail using "S" shaped hooks
     
    Last edited: 24 Nov 2021
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  14. michael12345

    michael12345

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    Thanks for your insight. Very good tips, especially the one regarding using builders adhesive when setting the plugs. Will give that a try.

    I've just purchased a couple of 1m long rails so once they turn up will give it a go! Many thanks
     
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