Hardwiring an oven

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Hi,

I'm wondering if someone out there can help me. Our single built-in oven gave up the ghost last night and I have been looking online for a new one. I would like to get a built-in double oven, but note that these all seem to require hardwiring.

So, before I buy a new oven, could someone give me an idea about how much an electrician would charge to hardwire an oven (my current oven plugs into a normal socket) and is there any mess involved? Our kitchen isn't due for an overhaul for a couple of years, so if this job will involve removing tiles and chiselling out plaster etc., think we will have to give it a miss and just get another oven we can plug in.

Thanks :)
 
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Can you give the rating of the old oven?

It should be marked on it somewhere

Not at home at the mo, so can't check but just checked online and the electrical connections of the old oven are:

voltage: 230-240V ~ 50Hz
maximum power absorbed
2250W-2400W

if that helps?? (Spot the clueless woman! :) )
 
it does and it doesn't..
it's somewhat entirely irrelevent as to the new oven and it's feed..

is the old oven on it's own circuit? or is it on the kitchen ring?

what size breaker is it fed from?

it's the rating of the new oven that we need....
 
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Col, the reason i asked was to find out whether the old cooker was ok in its wiring method.
IMO 2400W wasn't good anyway if fed from a ring final.
 
All of which is pointless as it is the old and not working one.

Just for info he said
my current oven plugs into a normal socket

So, we need to know the rating of the new oven.

Also, do you have a cooker supply anywhere in your kitchen? What is it used for?

Michael. Why do you say
IMO 2400W wasn't good anyway if fed from a ring final.
 
All of which is pointless as it is the old and not working one.

Just for info he said
my current oven plugs into a normal socket

So, we need to know the rating of the new oven.

Also, do you have a cooker supply anywhere in your kitchen? What is it used for?

Michael. Why do you say
IMO 2400W wasn't good anyway if fed from a ring final.

I think you misunderstand my motive for asking. It doesn't help what needs to happen, but does give me a little insight into what the quality of installation was prior. Just for my own curiosity, not much else.

In my opinion, a permanently fitted device of over 2kW should be supplied by its own circuit, not supplied by a general purpose ring final
 
I have a kettle which is always only ever plugged into the same socket, and is never unplugged to allow the socket to be used for anything else.
 
Ok, not a policy without flaws, but i would still think its prudent to do so. Can't locate it at the mo, but i believe there is guidance to suggest this.
Also, what might seem like a contradiction, given my thoughts on diversity as seen in other threads, but i would suggest that the time spent at full load would be longer for an oven than a kettle.
just opinions and methods as opposed to hard and fast regs.
 
It is in the 17th. Appendix 15. Its guidance

But, of course, regs aren't retrospective so there's nothing wrong with him plugging another 2.4KW load into a socket.

A different approach COULD be taken if you were laying out the wiring for a new kitchen.
 
HI TTC,
I dont have an arguement here, it really was just for info on my part.
BTW its MIK, not Micheal. :)

BAS,

How did you do the sticky post at the top of the forum?
Maybe we could have another re mandatory/guidance/informative status of the various support documents Sparkies use?
It seems that threads can often descend into the 'its just a guide' theme, all (decent) electricians know this and it seems we spend a lot of unnecessary time telling each other this fact.
 

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