Hello all. Pockethole question

[neilos]

Hey all.
I am new, have used other fora but often times read this one so thought we'd give it a go. I am a carpenter, but have a question which I guess is general-ish.
I have heard, twice now, about people using dry lining screws with their pocket hole jigs. What I am wondering is whether anyone here has tried it, and if so does it really work? I don't get how a countersunk screw could possibly work as well as a pan head as it would not really be able to achieve the same clamping pressure, would it? Or am I missing something?

Anyone? Thanks all. You don't realise it but some of you have already been an enormous help to me, as I have scoured this forum for answers before! And found 'em.

OK, thanks then. I hope I can add something to the forum, but in all honesty I fear I will take far more than I could ever give. But hey, I'll try.

Neil

 

[foxhole]

The drill bit appears to leave a flat surface for the underside of a pan head to tighten against.Never used one but using a counter sunk screw whatever type is more likely to split timber than a pan head if over tightened.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

I have heard, twice now, about people using dry lining screws with their pocket hole jigs. What I am wondering is whether anyone here has tried it, and if so does it really work?

It sort of works, but on MFC and MDF you have to be very careful not to blow the joint out by screwing in too hard. I don't think that they give such a strong joint, either. I've had large kitchen carcasses come apart on me a couple of times during manhandling through awkward buildings where the manufacturer had used drywalls. For the sake of coppers I don't think it's worth it

 

[Harbourwoodwork]

I presume your'e on about Gyprock screws ,If thats the case the under side of the head is concave and might have slightly less tendancy to split the wood than countersunk head the down side is these screws snap easily, but I am guessing Its the next best thing when the pan heads run out,the only way to really understand the in and outs of these things test it to destruction in all ways with all fixings.

 

[pinenot]

I use an arrangement whereby I chop a suitable gouge down at a shallow angle toward the end of the timber, then cut this at the opposing 90 deg angle, to form a sloping "D" like this - View media item 58333
Then use either self drilling bugle head screws, or if the material is really soft just plain drywall (bugle head) srews. But you must remember these screws are a little bit more brittle than the pan heads, so use with care...pinenot

 

[speed]

i use 1 1/4 6s twinthread woods crews with no problems

 

[big-all]

i tried no7 x1 1/4" countersunk with washers this reduced the splitting by 90% but decided the method i presently use is far stronger [2x35-40mm 8mm dowels] and equal costs to using "normal "screws

the screws at 3p each are very expensive the dowels i use are just over 1.1p and screws are about half that

 

[Harbourwoodwork]

This bring to mind the domino jointing system ,has anyone tried it? I am still using biscuits

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Yes. It's expensive. The joints are much more rigid than biscuits (after all they are loose tenons but cost a lot more than dowels). It works.....

 

[Harbourwoodwork]

I remember when biscuits cost a packet when lamello was the only one in town,I dont suppose making a few lengths of domino would be much bother either.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

At the end of the day it's a sophisticated slot mortises, albeit a bloody fast one. For those without the need there are alternatives, such as this