Help identifying fitting

[Diggory]

Hi. Grateful of some advice before I start on new downstairs cloakroom.

I am trying to size up the fittings (roughly) before I pull out old loo.
What I am unsure of is what exactly do I have that is set in concrete floor.

Visually, this'll looks like a slip type fitting which makes me wonder will I find a seal inside. I have been looking at fittings (say McAlpine Wc-con8e; that I think is my closest fit) that have a multi fin seal of their own - will this type be okay.

Thanks D.

 

[Newboy]

You have a 4" soil pipe with a push fit socket set into the concrete.

If you're going to use a finned 90° pan connector then you should fit a short piece of 4" soil pipe into the socket first.

 

[Diggory]

Thanks for that.
So it will have a seal - guess that will need replacing.

Would I be better with a non finned connector.
height is a premium as that push socket is already more than 100mm.

D

 

[flameport]

Finned connector fits into the pipe, so a piece of pipe is required in that socket.
Connector without fins will fit directly into the socket.
Or cut the socket off and put a finned connector into the pipe that is left.

 

[Diggory]

Thanks again.
I have had a look on-line for non finned 90 degree connectors and there aren't many! The only branded one I could find is the Wc-con9 but that has a peculiar offset that will loose me some spacing and move me too far towards the back wall.

I may look at the 4"sleeve suggestion and see if I can cut it off near to flush with top of soil pipe fitting. I assume there will be a step or collar inside the push fit socket to shoulder the 4" pipe against to stop 4" sleeve just disappearing down soil pipe.

D.

 

[denso13]

Or cut the socket off and put a finned connector into the pipe that is left.

Do this, cut it flush with the floor and use a long tailed finned connector.

 

[Newboy]

I assume there will be a step or collar inside the push fit socket to shoulder the 4" pipe against to stop 4" sleeve just disappearing down soil pipe.

Correct - you can't push the 4" pipe further than the collar

edit: error corrected

 

[Diggory]

Thanks all for the pipe fitting Identification and 4" sleeve tip.

My new loo is a close coupled back to wall jobbie (sorry - couldn't resist that). If I silicone the push-fit, the sleeve may help me lower the pan vertically onto the soil pipe. I could see getting the fins in would be tricky without the rear access.

D

 

[Madrab]

Most bent toilet connectors will have a removable fin seal, it's just a case of removing the rubber finned seal from the connector and pushing it into the 4" fitting.
Once the old connector is removed, clean the seal up with warm soapy water, dry and add a little smear of silicone grease to aid the new seal. Then just push the toilet back onto the connector.

 

[Diggory]

Thanks for that.

If I need to adjust the loo from back wall, could I fit a 90 degree push fit into push fit socket (in concrete). This would give me the connections on same plane ( horizontal) for a short straight like a Mac-1 (using the 4" sleeve).

Thanks D

 

[Diggory]

(Should have said - because the socket is concreted in floor and fixed, I only have about 2" gap between wall and socket and the rear of pan casing sits in this gap. The movement of pan in and out is limited to this distance - don't think I can use flex fit and slide into position after fitting connector.)

 

[Diggory]

I removed my loo - advice was spot on; 110mm push fit socket in the floor. The pan connection looks improvised - a standard WC connector cut off and solvent welded to 110mm pipe. I guess previous person also had same problem finding something that fitted.

Also discovered large dollop of cement under pan.
Large bolster out tomorrow.

D

 

[Diggory]

Hi. Hoping for a bit more advice.
Looking at advice of Denso13 and wondered about the long reach finned connector that reaches past the slip connector. Measuring up the depth and I noticed some damage in pipe from original fit (see pic).

Would you advice I patch this up - fill it with something and sand it. Would it solvent weld. Should I snap of the jagged bits and silicone.

Or should I just avoid that part of pipe.

 

[Madrab]

If it's through the wall of the pipe then clean it up and fill with a little 2 part epoxy. If it's not through just clean it up.

 

[Diggory]

That's a good idea - do you mean something like the 2part putty for leak fixing ?

I don't think there is a hole to be seen but it looks like an impact has deformed and broken the plastic. It has probably sprung back and closed up.

Thanks D