Help with hot water loss please - marriage at stake!

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Forgive me if my problem has already been covered elsewhere, but despite searching I can't seem to find the help I need... I will therefore relate the sorry tale of my Worcester Electronic 9.24 BF's gradual demise from the beginning. I know it's well past replacement date incidentally but am told that to benefit from the scrappage scheme it must be 'in working order', so that's partly the problem...

Anyway, having had this boiler and incredibly not having had a single problem with it since it was fitted about 20 years ago, I found that after I first turned the central heating back on last October, there were shrieking noises and the hot water pressure began to fall dramatically, eventually slowing to a scalding trickle. It was worst upstairs in the bathroom. However as I am married to a builder (and competent plumber I might add, except of course when it comes to fixing anything at home!) by withholding privileges for about a week I managed to persuade him to take a look at the system. I don't know quite what he did apart from fiddling with the taps, but the flow rate then seemed to right itself. But not long after this, the DHW temperature began to drop and drop until, as now, it is barely tepid even when the central heating is not operating, and is completely cold when the CH is on. For a while (whilst the heating is on) I was able to hear the boiler firing up when I turned the hot tap on hard, but now it isn't doing that either and only runs lukewarm for about a minute before going stone cold. Not even enough to wash-up a saucepan in other words. I am at the stage now where I would kill for a hot bath!

I still have the original manual for this boiler and have begged the other half to investigate the problem and go through the 'fault finding' procedure till I am blue in the face but as he isn't Corgi registered he refuses to even look at it and in any case he is out 6 days a week dealing with other peoples problems... The guy he uses for this kind of thing on building jobs is up to his eyes in other work and anyway charges a fortune. British Gas I am given to understand won't repair this model as they say the parts are no longer available. SO, can anyone please advise the next best course of action short of divorce. I should of course never had married a builder in the first place as the house is now falling down around my ears, but that's another story...!

If I could get an idea of what is causing the problem and if it involves a universal part or something which is relatively easily fixed, not involving the actual gas supply, maybe I could persuade my beloved husband to give up a few precious hours to deal with it, so hope someone can give a useful diagnosis.

The only other thing I can think of which might be of relevance is that back in the autumn we had trouble with the pilot light staying on for a while, but managed to fix that.
 
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can 't think that much of you if she'd leave you over no hw.
felix.gif
 
These things are rather ancient, friends of mine have one, and it took a lot of searching to locate parts last year when it threw a wobbly. It is getting to the stage when you will have to bite the bullet and look towards replacing it unfortunately. :(

For now. Turn the hot tap on, if the boiler doesnt fire then it may not be activating the diverter switch. If it does fire, and no hot water at taps, feel the 22mm flow pipe to the heating, does this get hot?
 
Is there a flow restrictor in the boiler? I had exactly the same issue with my C & M britony ( no dhw unless the tap on FULL., and then only lukewarm before clay cold ) It turned out to be a broken part inside the flow restrictor causing it not to restrict at all. Hence the diapragm never moved and hence no DHW.
 
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Thanks for the swift response. No, Hugh, the boiler isn't firing anymore - it was doing until a couple of weeks ago but erratically.

@seco services... clearly you don't agree that provision of hot water and domestic diy services should be written into every marriage contract! :D
 
Have the voltage at the gas valve checked it might be knackered.
 
@gees There is a 'two position' flow regulator which switches between summer and winter if that's what you mean. This appears to reduce flow in winter.
 
@gees There is a 'two position' flow regulator which switches between summer and winter if that's what you mean. This appears to reduce flow in winter.

I'm not sure but maybe someone else with a lot more knowledge that me may be able to answer that question. :confused:
 
I think that probably is the same as what you were describing...

Basically by reading the manual cover to cover as far as I can tell the problem seems to be related to either:
a) The diverter valve
b) The flow restrictor
c) something electrical related to either of the above

If it's a plumbing part or even something electrical, I've no doubt that my husband can fix it if pointed in the right direction. However being pretty clueless when it comes to anything practical, electrical or diy related I may be barking completely up the wrong tree...!
 
Probably the diaphragm (about £4) or divertor valve. Get him to check if pin is moving to hit microswitch. If not, press switch with a screwdriver. Boiler should light. Easy to change.

IF he gets around to fixing this you should repay his kindness by running after his asre even more than usual for the next week and giving him complete unrestricted usage of the remote control :D

I once had an ensuite shower that had a constant drip. It never bothered me so i never fixed it.
One night she woke me saying she couldn't get to sleep for the dripping shower and demanded i fix it.
I got up and put the handset down it the tray. FIXED :LOL:

She paid another plumber, some guy out the paper, to come and fix it for £80 :eek:
Just said he was a robbing b...... and gave her the money back :LOL: :LOL:
 
I think that probably is the same as what you were describing...

Basically by reading the manual cover to cover as far as I can tell the problem seems to be related to either:
a) The diverter valve
b) The flow restrictor
c) something electrical related to either of the above

If it's a plumbing part or even something electrical, I've no doubt that my husband can fix it if pointed in the right direction. However being pretty clueless when it comes to anything practical, electrical or diy related I may be barking completely up the wrong tree...!

On My particular boiler the flow restrictor is a spring loaded valve that sits in the hot water pipework and is mechanically in between the 2 sides of the diaphragm. when the hot tap is turned on the pressure diffrence produced by the flow restrictor operates the diapragm and thus the divertor valve. At the same time turning on the electrics to the system. This state of affairs continues untill the tap is turned off. At that piont the spring loaded valve closes completly and the pressure diffrence across the diaphragm is equalized by a small water bleed hole inside the valve. As this happens the spring loaded diverter valve rises back to the central heating position.
 
...it never bothered me so I never fixed it.

I think you must be related ;) Our bathroom toilet hasn't flushed in years or had a seat, but of course that doesn't bother my husband or son either 'cos they stand up and muggins here flushes it with bathwater when the stench gets too much to bear! :rolleyes:

Thank you both though for those pointers - Really useful and I'm sure that will get to the nub of the problem one way or another. I assume Tamz by 'diaphragm' you mean the same bit as Gees is talking about?
 
Diverter valve on these IIRC is a 'flying saucer' shaped part at the bottom R/H side. When the hot tap is turned on it should push upwards to activate a microswitch. Check it does hit (and operate!) the switch.

Toilet seat is 2 nuts underneath, new one easy enough to fit. Flush may just be a broken link from handle to syphon, again easy to sort!
 
Diaphragm is a rubber washer type thing that is inside the divertor valve. Divertor valve is round brass thing about 3" diameter with 6 or 8 screws around edge should be at lower left side facing front. Microswitch assembly is fitted to front of divertor valve held by a circlip.
You can pick up diaphragms from any parts place for a couple of quid.
To change it turn off power, turn off cold supply, remove microswitch assembly, remove screws from divertor, remove old diaphragm. Refit in reverse order.

I think you must be related

It's like the cobblers weans :LOL:
 
Diverter valve on these IIRC is a 'flying saucer' shaped part at the bottom R/H side.

It may well be. Never saw one for a while.

Toilet seat is 2 nuts underneath, new one easy enough to fit. Flush may just be a broken link from handle to syphon, again easy to sort!

Lidl sometimes sell wee toolboxes. Handy investment :LOL: :LOL:
 

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