Help with re-glazing an old door.

4 Nov 2006
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United Kingdom
Hi There,

I'd like to refurbish my old front door instead of replacing it. I plan on taking out the thin 4mm glass. Machining the rebates deeper and replacing with modern sealed glass units.

Currently the glass is mounted from the inside and held in place with putty. Is this method in-secure? As I notice that glass is now commonly installed from the front via tape, and beading.

If I replace the glass from the inside with putty or internal beading and tape, is that asking for trouble?

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No problem;


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Thanks for taking a look. Routing is no problem (I manufacture router bits).

My question is just, is fixing the glass from inside asking for trouble. Modern doors have glass fitted from outside.
OK, As long as there is enough timber to remove and allow for the new units. Then rebate to the correct depth and silicone in the units with glazing silicone and fit glazing bead on the inside.

Won't be a problem in fitting from inside but rebating deep enough to fit a dgu is another thing, you currently have single glazing at 4mm, modern doors have 28mm units some even 44mm if triple glazed! What unit thickness did you have in mind because I doubt there's enough meat to remove to get anything more than 4/6/4 plus bead in there, and being only a 6mm cavity it probably wouldn't make any measurable difference than single glazing
might be better with laminated glass?

would it be acceptable to use a moulding on the face of the inside?
Even a moulding on the outside?
that would give you the entire depth of the door for glass
if you're thinking of security, 5mm laminate, held in with double-sided glazing tape plus a glazing bead, would be good.

For heat loss, you could add a face-fixed glass or polycarbonate sheet to the inside, as secondary glazing.

If you ventilate the cavity to the outside with a tiny drilled hole, you will not get condensation inside the gap

(I await disagreement from people who have never actually done it)
Security tape as mentioned, You can get 1mm tape. Or even just bed it in on silicone.
Dont use putty! Linseed oil breaks down the sealant in double glazed units.
Internal beading/framing is fine if needed.
The units (if you want them to last) should have a 5mm gap around them for ventilation and as John said a small hole or 2 to allow for ventilation and drainage.
Rebate needs to be wide enough to cover the edge of the units (approx 12mm) plus the 5mm for ventilation, So about 17mm all around to protect the edge from UV.
Thanks for replies. Understood that glazing tape is tough stuff and it is secure to use it from the inside.

The door is 45mm so possibly not enough room for a thin insulated unit at 18, but the ideas for flush beading, or a home-made cavity gap are good.

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