Help with replacing BG WR1 with Hive receiver

[enthusiast]

I am sorry if I am duplicating posts here but had a look and cant quite see what I am after.
I have a old potterton E4000 series controller that I want to replace with a hive unit. I have a combi boiler (Potterton Promax Series). I have ordered the appropriate hive unit. Whats thrown me a bit is that I have an extra grey pair of cables coming out of the controller to boiler on connection 4 (which is marked as unused on Hive) Connection 2 on the backplane is currently unused, whereas its marked for use on Hive. I intend to remove the 4000 controller, so I will L/N/E from mains coming directly into the receiver rather than 4 pairs as I currently have now. I 'assume' that I will need to loop out from one to another somewhere but I am not sure.
Picture below

On the left is the diagram as Hive would like it, and on the right what I have in place with the WR1. I had a look at the Drayton site and none of the schematics there relate to what I have. (maybe they do but being a boiler numpty I am not clear what does w
could one of you kind folk give me some pointers? I tried to find the schematic for the controller but couldnt readily see one so I cant quite see how the functions need to be mapped.
thanks!

 

[stem]

If I'm not mistaken the WR1 is the wireless thermostat, so it won't have any wires connected to it, but the wiring is connected to an SCR receiver like this:

If so, and you are referring to the SCR wiring, you are quite right, terminal 4 is unused as you can see from the SCR connections below.

So, terminal 4 has probably just been used by the original installer as a convenient place to connect the two grey wires together.

I'm a bit puzzled by your post though, because you say you want to replace a programmer with a Hive and then post pictures of your thermostat instead. Anyway if you do have an SCR, you can fit the Hive (single channel version) in place of it. If you don't want to rewire the system to take out the programmer you can leave it in place, but it would need to be set so that the heating is permanently 'on' otherwise it will interfere with the operation of the Hive.

Don't worry about terminal 2 (heating off) that's not required, so shouldn't have a connection to it.

 

[enthusiast]

Hi Stem, thanks so much for replying, and apologies for confusion: Seeing the help you have given other folks on the forum I really appreciate it.
I have the following: Its in its untethered state as I am trying to replace it so forgive the mess:

I would be replacing both the old potterton timer and the WR1 / Drayton.
As I said what threw me was the extra wires in there that I wasnt expecting. So:
Instead of the timer to the WR1 there will be a direct mains feed to the Hive receiver, and then the link to the boiler.
The connection to the boiler still has 4 wires in it. I am not 100% sure of their function:
The Drayton (that the WR1 is based on apparently) says the following in the installer guide:

That annoyingly still leaves me no clearer:

Trying to then make sense of this leads me to this as a first attempt - :

Standing by with my tin hat on: Again appreciate the help -

 

[stem]

Unfortunately I'm not familiar with the E4000, but if the grey and black wires here:

Go to the switching contacts of the E4000, then with this:

You don't need a tin hat. You've nailed it!

 

[enthusiast]

Thanks I will give that a go and let you know- really apprecite the help!
All the best

 

[enthusiast]

Folks just to let you know that this did the trick. I still have some thermostat issues (I think) with my boiler as its exhibiting the same wierd behaveiour it did with the old controller attatched. The main thing (I guess) is that I can rule out the old thermostat / receiver etc...now
I am probably going to get someone in to look at the boiler at this point as it seems to think its hotter than it actually is
Looking at the manual it says that its max temp it should heat to (internally I guess) is 80 degrees C which makes sense. Boiler is displaying 58 on the front of its display as I type, but if I feel inlet vs outlet they really seem to feel much cooler and the radiators are all tepid. If I hit boost on the hive unit it comes on briefly and then turns itself off when the display on the front hits 79. (which makes sense) but again if you feel the pipes its clearly not that. On my old system I would have to force it to override to bring it up to the mark, but that was also subject to the boiler just turning off... Sometimes it will run and heat the house, other times like now it yo yo's up and down never really getting the place warm other than with the first cycle of the day. I would have thought it should be monitoring the return feed for this but that is the subject for another day and another post.
I will keep you guys updated. Just again to say thanks to Stem, and and really appreciate the help. I feel a lot more confortable with computers rather than boilers so will try and pay it forward there on this site in some way.
All the best

 

[ianmcd]

which Promax do you have there are lots , sounds like a setup problem

 

[Itonlytook2yrs]

Hi, on a similar vein I am contemplating upgrading my water and heating controls to the HIVE system. Currently I have a BG RC Plus Wireless Programmable Room Thermostat linked to a BG WR1 receiver to provide heating control. For water control I have a BG UT2 Single Channel Timeswitch/Controller. This is connected to a CS1 Tank Stat via wiring centre. The boiler is a conventional BG 330+. I have a separate water tank. There are two separate Drayton zone valves for water and heating. Lastly there is a pump. This system was installed by BG in 2011.

All systems worked as advertised and without problems.

I want to install a HIVE Dual Channel Receiver on the back plate where the WR1 is located. I am ok with the live, neutral and earth cables. I am ok with isolating the system when working on it...it has the necessary fuses and is easy to isolate.

On the WR1 I have a Grey cable (Brown sleaving) connected to terminal 1 (COM) and a Black cable (Brown sleaving) connected to terminal 3 (HTG On). This appears to wired in single channel configuration. The new Dual Channel HIVE has HTG On (4) and HTG Off (2). Photo attached.

My question is what do I do with the Grey cable (COM) and is it needed? The Grey cable (COM) is terminated at the wiring centre, in this case terminal 3. There is a cable link in the wiring centre from terminal 3 to terminal 7 (HTG & HW Grey). Photo attached. As for the other WR1 I presume I simply move the Black cable on the backplate from the current terminal 3 in WR1 configuration to the HIVE configuration terminal 4 (HTG On)?

On the UT2 I have a Black wire with a Brown sleaving connected to terminal 3 (HW On). There appears to be a cable link between the live and terminal 1 (COM). Similar question is which cable(s) to connect to which terminal(s)? I presume I move the Black cable from terminal 3 in UT2 configuration to HIVE configuration terminal 3 (HW On). Photo attached.

Would appreciate any advice.

 

[ianmcd]

you need to start your own post, it is against site rules to Hi-jack others post and for very good reason, what you are asking has nothing to do with the existing post, which had already been Hi jacked , start your own if you want the correct advice