Help with replacing landing light

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Hi guys, I’ve been trying to replace my landing light all night last night and I just wanted to see if I’ve wired it up correctly before I connect it up.

I followed this diagram that I found. And I have a blue wire and yellow wire left, I’m assuming the yellow wire is the switch wire, I’ve attached images to the post of what connectors I have in my new pendant.

Thankyou so much for any help given

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Did you photograph the connections before you took the old one off?

I think your landing light has an upstairs and a downstairs switch. This is called two-way switching. Your diagram is for one-way switching, which is different.

I think you have (at least) one cable with red, black and earth cores

And another with red, yellow, blue and earth cores.

Am I right?
 
Did you photograph the connections before you took the old one off?

I think your landing light has an upstairs and a downstairs switch. This is called two-way switching. Your diagram is for one-way switching, which is different.

I think you have (at least) one cable with red, black and earth cores

And another with red, yellow, blue and earth cores.

Am I right?
IMG_4749.jpeg

That’s what the wires were when I took it off
 
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Pop out to the shops and buy a multimeter (one with test leads)




 
We should have red or brown line, and blue or black neutral, however this is a pain with multi-core cables, as you want to work out which is permanent line and which is switched line, so using twin and earth with brown and blue and over covering the blue with brown sleeve or tape is generally a better idea, same with three core, but these covers often fall off or were never put on, so we need to note what goes where before we dismantle a ceiling rose we need to take notes or mark the wires.

Failing this one can use a tester, I use one of these Testing for live.jpg handy as it has non contact voltage and current testing, but even a bulb on two wires can be used, however in the main I open the switch and see how that is wired.

Years ago there was a reasonably standard wiring, and comparing one ceiling rose to another would help work out what colours that electrician used, but today there are so many options, using triple and earth to the switch means one can use the third wire for a neutral or a two way system latter without need for new cables, smart switches either need a neutral, batteries, or pass current through the bulb all the time even when off, so common now to have neutral at the switch.

But it may be just a spare wire for use latter, so what have you got to test with?

The problem is on a forum we have no idea of your skill, and 230 volt is dangerous if not handled with care, laying out a step by step instructions it is too easy to either miss some thing in the telling or in the reading, so it needs general instructions, so you understand what you are doing.

I would to start with turn off all power and get my wife to flick light switch while I test wires to find out which are the switch wires, then mark them. I would put the wires in a connector block so they can't in error touch anything, main thing can't touch me, and test to earth to find out which is permanent line using the meter shown. Or use the non contact tester if I can't trust earth wires are actually earth.

But a non contact tester can give false results, so one has to use some judgement as if likely correct or not.

In hind sight take pictures first, but now you need to decide if you have the skill to keep yourself safe, if not, get an electrician to sort it.

The big question is why you have a triple and earth cable, we expect three cables, power in, power to next lamp, and switch wires, but why is one three core? My first thing would be look at the switch, and then if not three core there, look at other ceiling roses.
 
P.s.

Have some of your other lights stopped working?

Does your consumer unit ("fusebox") have MCBs (like a switch that trips on and off) or fuses (that you can pull out)?
Incorrect wiring of lighting often causes a dead short, and it is tiresome to replace fuses.
 
P.s.

Have some of your other lights stopped working?

Does your consumer unit ("fusebox") have MCBs (like a switch that trips on and off) or fuses (that you can pull out)?
Incorrect wiring of lighting often causes a dead short, and it is tiresome to replace fuses.
All the lights in the house are on one fuse on the fuse box so I’ve turned that off and have had that off since Sunday so I’m unsure if other lights are working
 
While you're out buying your multimeter, buy some connection strips ("choc blocks")

They will enable you to terminate your wires safely and turn on the other lights

And will also make it easier and safer for you to test and identify.

6amp will do.

1689683242938.png
 
While you're out buying your multimeter, buy some connection strips ("choc blocks")

They will enable you to terminate your wires safely and turn on the other lights

And will also make it easier and safer for you to test and identify.

6amp will do.

View attachment 308571
So do I just put all the wires into those? I’m an absolute novice at this. Got quoted 80 quid by an electrician too I’m not sure if that is expensive?
 
P.s.

Have some of your other lights stopped working?

Does your consumer unit ("fusebox") have MCBs (like a switch that trips on and off) or fuses (that you can pull out)?
Incorrect wiring of lighting often causes a dead short, and it is tiresome to replace fuses.
The fuse box I have is switch based, I didn’t need to pull anything out to turn all the lights off. So if I do it wrong will it just trip it or blow the fuse?
 
So do I just put all the wires into those?

Yes, and when you've done that, we'll explain how to identify them with your multimeter. It will not take long.

You will need a very small electricians screwdriver, as the screwheads are small. Preferably insulated.

£80 for callout of a qualified person plus equipment seems reasonable. Check that they are a member of a Competent Person scheme.
 
Shout out

I can't find a diagram for 2-way lighting.

Anybody got one?
 

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