High Gloss skirting and Satinwood doors? Look naff?

20 Oct 2016
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I need to repaint a lot of the skirting in my house, 5 bed, 3 floors (a lot of skirting/woodwork). its currently high gloss but has yellowed quite a bit in places. Some of it is ok, like windowsills etc. and the pillars. but the majority of the skirting needs done again.

I prefer the satinwood finish to the shiny high gloss. but I'd rather not do EVERYTHING again. So I'm thinking just repaint what's required in high gloss again and leave the rest.

The doors are currently gloss too. and I need to redo all 13 of these. I was thinking, and my question is, Would Satinwood doors look bad against high gloss skirting? Or should I just stick to the gloss finish for both?

Thoughts and Advice appreciated.

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I can't say I have ever tried that look, but my mind says it will look wrong. If you were to use different colours it may be more acceptable, but I would say bite the bullet and do it all again with whichever paint finish you prefer - it will make a big difference. You will probably find that just doing some areas and leaving others will make it 'look naff' anyway.
In an ideal world I'd like to do it all water based satinwood, so it didn't yellow etc. I'm just worried about the amount of work sanding, possibly undercoating everything would be. Its a big job! and the Mrs may kill me.

Also worried if I go for the satinwood it wont stay clean, I've two young kids who often have grubby paws. Having the ability to wipe gloss clean easily is a definitely bonus!
The thing that would worry me is with two different finishes and types of paint is that they will discolour unevenly again. making your woodwork look even tattier than now.
I've used johnstones oil based satinwood, now a couple of years ago and it's still nice and white, very impressed compared to the likes of yellowing dulux (tho may have improved since then). That's fine to wipe down too, no kids but a mucky cat and other half :)
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So satinwood oils based is likely to stick better to oil based gloss I'm guessing. I should still key the existing gloss before applying it though right?

Think I'll go with that.
Yeah, a light key should be ok if the paint is clean :) Good luck with it all!
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I found that water based satin cleans up remarkably well ! WE have a short stair handrail in the sunroom so it got filthy from me coming in from the garden and grabbing it . So bad I thought I'd re paint it with gloss. Then I cleaned it - just in preparation for sanding - blow me it came up like new.;)
Good to know Nige! Reassuring as it's the banister I'm most worried about gettin grotty.
In this generally confused and poorly written article, ( https://www.duluxtradepaintexpert.co.uk/editorial/dulux-trade-high-gloss-pure-brilliant-white including the statements: "In this review I've been looking at the Dulux trade high-gloss. I've been using this product for around 15 years and due to different European regulations - mainly VOC 2010, paint has changed a fair bit in this time.") - by "Product" the writer means "Brand" - the paint product today bears little relationship to the Dulux paint products of 15, 30, and 60 years ago, and all the intermediate evolutionary versions - in the final paragraph it states:

"Note: Whilst leading-edge technology has been used in the development of this product, the nature of solvent-based paints means that they will all discolour over time. The rate of discolouration is faster in areas with no natural or UV light. For long-lasting whiteness, we recommend the use of a water-based formulation such as Dulux Trade Ecosure Water-Based Gloss."

The bolded text does not state, as it might have done, that the discolouration is bleachable.

Now, if Dulux had been smart, and out for an extra buck or two, they should have released "specialist" paint care kits that were recommended to maintain and clean (i.e. bleach ) the paint work every 3 months or so, with a discount voucher for the starter kit with the original paint purchase, and cleaning products etc., with refills for continued brand loyalty.

The kits, for instance, could have a safe UV light source, and a UV activated gel (which would release a concentrated chemical bleaching agent) and applicator. They would work on the principle that molecular oxygen absorbs UV energy and dissociates to give energetic oxygen free radicals which may oxidise and thus bleach chemical bonds that produce colour (i.e., those bonds that cause a once transparent medium to absorb light and darken in certain wavelengths) in organic polymeric compounds (epoxides) fundamental to the "glossiness" in gloss paints.

As it is, a cheap supermarket thick bleach, applied neat (with due care regarding spillage, ventilation, and protective clothing to prevent exposure to skin, eyes and airways) to indoor paintwork with a nylon bristle paintbrush, at about 90 day intervals will largely remove yellowing, and many other stains like smoke and cooking volatiles, mould growth etc. It can be allowed to dry for maximum effect, and any residue wiped off with a damp cloth, polished with a dry cloth with no loss of paintwork glossiness, and no loss of original colour in coloured paintwork - which has had bleach (i.e. UV, or chemically induced) colour resistance for many years. Discoloured paint that has never been bleached will show dramatic, although rarely total, bleaching of the discolouration.

If you test patches of paintwork in shady and secluded room corners which are not exposed to bright lighting you can estimate the potential benefits of using a bleach on the paintwork, instead of, or before redecorating, maybe saving a lot of money on paint and materials.

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